Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Almost completed my engine swap in my 33, just need to know what the following hoses connect to.. (RB25DET)

img0490vx.jpg

Do i even need the canister at the front? If someone could join the dots for me i'd really appreciate it.

Also, big black earth wire from near relay box, where do i bolt it on the motor?

Thanks

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365788-boost-solenoid-hoses/
Share on other sites

Hose goes from boost pipe (from I/C to throttle body) to solenoid. Another from solenoid to T. One side of T to bov return pipe other side to w/g actuator. There was a restrictor in there somewhere but I'll be b****d if I can remmeber in which part

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to dig up old thread, but can anybody tell me where the restrictor should be?

On mine, I have a 6mm line going from the intercooler pipe to the actuator, with a T piece in there that has a 4mm hose going to the bottom of the solenoid, then another 4mm hose from the top of the solenoid to the bov return pipe. My restrictor is in the 6mm hose going from the cooler pipe to the T piece.

I've noticed that it runs 0.3kg/cm2 (~4psi), rising to 0.38kg/cm2 (~5psi) at 4500rpm when the solenoid kicks in. I've disconnected both lines from the solenoid and joined them to test with, and when I do this it make 0.6kg/cm2 (~8psi), so I know it's not something like the gauge reading wrong and leaves me thinking the restrictor is in the wrong spot.

Am I right that I should move the restrictor to the 4mm line going from the T piece to the solenoid?

Jonno, it's a 25, and they do for the factory solenoid. Going to see if I can move it to the 4mm hose going to the solenoid tomorrow to see if it makes any difference. In my head it sounds like the right place for it.

iirc standard 25 setup (r33 25 anyway) has a single boost line from the elbow going into the solenoid, then one line to the actuator and the bleed line back to the intake, no need for restrictors anywhere

Yeah Jonno, both my old S1 R33 I had, and my S1 Stag (S2 R33 RB25DET) have run the same solenoid setup with the restrictor.

Bob, any chance you've found since your earlier post which hose your restrictor is in?

Yeah Jonno, both my old S1 R33 I had, and my S1 Stag (S2 R33 RB25DET) have run the same solenoid setup with the restrictor.

Bob, any chance you've found since your earlier post which hose your restrictor is in?

I know the restrictor does NOT go in the line to the bov return which just leaves 2 options and I am 90% sure that it goes in the line from the intercooler pipe. If you can get a look at a stock car that will confirm the plumbing and also there should be a band marked around the stock line to indicate the position of the restrictor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...