Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

firstly i would say check ALL OVER THE CAR for a pink / green / purple plate etc etc.. check in the door jambs on the passenger door..

if it's still not there i would be inclined to say that no, you will definitely not be able to get that vehicle complied with an RB26. or possibly comply it at all...

that said - i see you're from queensland - and from what i see over there, it's pretty much anything goes if you slip em a XXXX!!!! ahahaha

firstly i would say check ALL OVER THE CAR for a pink / green / purple plate etc etc.. check in the door jambs on the passenger door..

if it's still not there i would be inclined to say that no, you will definitely not be able to get that vehicle complied with an RB26. or possibly comply it at all...

that said - i see you're from queensland - and from what i see over there, it's pretty much anything goes if you slip em a XXXX!!!! ahahaha

LOL yer wish it was that easy

i looked every were its like some one half tried to comply it cos its got the side intrusion bars but just no paper work and no green plate

no wonder it was cheap

are you brissy based? if so I can probably help in a way.

whn you bough it was it registered at all or had it been through registration?

do you have a chassis number at all?

are you brissy based? if so I can probably help in a way.

whn you bough it was it registered at all or had it been through registration?

do you have a chassis number at all?

i'm in central qld

it hasn't been registered no aus vin number just the jap one

ok ,

when you bough it did you get ANY of the import paperwork with it?

if so contact a RAW that can comply your type of car and tell them the story. www.raws.com.au will give you a starting point.

if NOT then you have a track pig only. it cannot be registered here.

My car is currently registered, but the compliance plate has been lost from a re-spray and re-build. now the previous owner is being a C&*T and doesnt want to help me in any way. I dont have any import papers, just the new aussie vin has been stamped on the drivers strut tower. Is there anything you can suggest Chris for me to get a replacement so I can get a roadworthy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...