Jump to content
SAU Community

Copper plugs

R33vit

By R33vit,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

Dude, if you fitted BCPR6ES they were probably gapped to 1.1mm. Check and see if the part number is actually BCPR6ES-11. If so, I would make sure you gap them to 0.8mm before you install them again.

Remember, it is always a good idea to check the gap with feeler guages even if you're not changing it.

If you are running higher than standard boost, I can strongly suggest BCPR7ES-11 gapped to 0.8mm. These are exactly the same plug but one heat range colder. They should only cost the same as the 6's @ about $4- retail. I pay about $2.65.

Good luck.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36742-copper-plugs/#findComment-733406
Share on other sites
R33vit Experienced

R33vit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanx for the reply guys.

I did gap em to 0.8mm before hand.

Ben

I cant remember what they cost, I walked in and pickup a few other items at the same time..

Adrian

Im boosting to 10psi but this is a miss at idle dude. I have noticed I dont have an ignition amp mounted on the coil cover near the firewall. There was never one there when I purchased the car and I had no idea there should have been one, but the car ran fine before the change of plugs..

Wonder if one of the coil packs or wiring harness may have a problem after moving them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36742-copper-plugs/#findComment-733531
Share on other sites
R33vit Experienced

R33vit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Put in the old plugs agian and see if the miss goes away...

I was going to do just that. Next time a get a spare 30 min..

funny thing is the old plugs where a USA brand Autolite APP3924-11 Double Platinum... There worn out and the gap is at over 1.7mm :headspin:

Still the car ran fine as they where and managed to pull a 13.9 at WSID :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36742-copper-plugs/#findComment-733747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...