Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After reading your fb page perhaps renaming it without generalizing on the n/a emphasis would perhaps be more suitable. Possibly "supra Silvia skyline soarer pulsar club with out turbos" or something similar.

Who cares.

  • 4 weeks later...

so is this an import club or just a NA jap club? i checked out on FB and u haev ppl coming that are in imprezers n shiz

From the looks of it, it's a club for people with the slowest variants of Japanese cars.

From the looks of it, it's a club for people with the slowest variants of Japanese cars.

I would say its for the younger generation that are not able to drive turbo cars, i can drive a turbo now but im to tall to fit into anything besides a V, S15 R33 R34 my head is in the roof of the car and my legs are touching the handbrake and steering wheel.

ive started up the forum for the melbourne n/a club if anyone's interested :) sign up !

http://melbna.com/forum/index.php

signed up. make me a mod :P

Edited by Mohsen
I would say its for the younger generation that are not able to drive turbo cars

Probably. They seem to make about as much sense as your average teenager.

They talk about wanting "Jap imports", which is normally code for grey imports, but they've got so many Australian-delivered cars.

They talk about being into "normally aspirated cars" but limit it to 4's and 6's with "no V8s", which rules out stuff like the Soarer & Celsior, which are far more "Jap import" than a Celica and still meet the NA requirements.

They say they don't want people with "brash natures", but one of the member cars is a NA JZA80 with the same Bomex front bar as the eye-searing F&F car.

But my original point is that their list of "suggested cars" are the pissweak versions of the vehicle. Their list comprises mostly of the slow-as-f**k NA variants of cars where you'd only actually want the FI ones, and they've opted for the Australian-delivered SSS Pulsar over the grey import VZR-N1. Not one car in their list is the halo model.

At the same time they've ignored the genuinely exciting NA cars that top their range, like Type-Rs or old BMWs. An E36 328i (which is P-plate legal) isn't going for that much these days. They do have a MX-5 member (and I rate the NA ones over the FI ones just from the purity of spirit) but they seem to be the exception, rather than the rule.

i can drive a turbo now but im to tall to fit into anything besides a V, S15 R33 R34 my head is in the roof of the car and my legs are touching the handbrake and steering wheel.

To be fair, the 350GT is the top-spec of its range. So my comment doesn't really apply to you.

What about going non-Nissan? Would you fit in Z30 Soarer? Or a JX90/100 Chaser? The JZA80 was built for the US market as well.

I havent tried the Chaser, but TBH im more of a 2 door man not that big on the 4 door cars, im going to look at some imports this weekend so ill probably sit in a chaser and a supra again, also gona look at evo 8 onwards also but i would much prefer a coupe over the sedan. I was not a huge fan of the soarer tbh.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...