Jump to content
SAU Community

040

whitenight27
 Share

Recommended Posts

loymclure Proficient

loymclure

Posted
Posted

I remembered a thread from many moons ago and did a search for it, i think this is what you are after

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/191347-040-into-stagea/page__p__3442797__hl__bosch+040__fromsearch__1#entry3442797

good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367759-040/#findComment-5865781
Share on other sites
loymclure Proficient

loymclure

Posted
Posted

Had one in mine

Easy as piss to install

Will just fit into the stock cradle,couple of stainless cable ties and she"ll be apples

Till it fries,or you get sick of the noise

what did you replace your's with after you got sick of the noise?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367759-040/#findComment-5866777
Share on other sites
leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted

as stated fits std cradle(just) with a bit of modifacation, from memory you dont use top part of cradle due to larger diameter of 040, i found the hardest part sliding the cradle back on it's posistioning rails, and i hardly notice the pump noise only on priming and then nothing, and also mine came with a non return valve which i removed hence a little bit longer to crank over,no big deal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367759-040/#findComment-5867096
Share on other sites
AAA34T Community Regular

AAA34T

Posted
Posted (edited)

i put a walbro i have been told the 040 is similar in mine last week took 10min.

The only mistake people make is in the tank.

*On the line there is a plastic t peice which is a pressure bypass valve and it wont allow mutch more pressure

than the standard pump you MUST remove it to get max flow. i found out about it on the dyno and had to remove

it on the dyno.

*and the new pump uses more power so upgrade the power supply to the pump.

mine is just as quiet as the standard pump so far so good

Edited by datzla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367759-040/#findComment-5867459
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

with the 040 you'll want a direct feed from the battery

also make sure to position it as LOW as possible so you dont have issues with the tank when 3/4 empty.

with my 040 installed 4yrs ago have never had any issues, can run the fuel tank almost dry as it is situated as low down as possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367759-040/#findComment-5867704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...