Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: 1999 NISSAN SKYLINE 34 GTT and A supra N/a, 34 Skyline and N/A supra

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Postcode: 4132

Odometre: 100,000 kilometres

Asking Price: $20,000

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: He doesnt need them

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: PM ME

Extra Information:

Hey guys i got 2 cars for sale both my mates he doesn't need them due to having 4 cars and a bike normal army boy wasting his money lol

So here they are

34 has had abit of work on it and the supra has had 40k spent on it i dont know why he would spend 40 k on a NA but hey each to there own

Sup nice cars

this is the supra

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat..._RankSort_Int32

for the money he has spent on it thats cheap and maybe if u offer a good price he would go lower

Bought from Dealership at 90,000kms-----

Non turbo - P.Plate Legal-----

Full custom exhuast with headers, massive cannon-----

Custom colour Paint job with UV enhanced gloss-----

Alpine Sound System with sub-----

Carbon fibre interior with 3 pod gauge cluster custom mould. gauges included.-----

serious buyers only

--- getting a little anxious to sell this car as running into debts, and a second car isnt helping. - ill consider any "reasonable" offers. keeping in mind 40,000$+ has been spent on this car, and have most receipts. including 100,000km service with sports parts ( total 7,000$ including sports parts and custom exhaust) body kit, paint job etc.

$17,000 with rwc

$14,000 without rwc

I have a quote and parts list of what is needed to get the road worthy. it is hard for me to get a rwc as i have no money. but can take out loans or whatever is necessary to aquire a RWC. i am quoted 2,500$ for a RWC.

and the 34 skyline

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat..._RankSort_Int32

Tiptronic Transmission, converting to manual;

GT3076r .82 External gate;

FMIC;

3" Turbo back exhaust;

Nismo 480cc Injectors;

Nistune ECU;

Innovate LC1 Wideband installed;

Tomei Intank fuel pump;

Stage 2 Shift kitted Auto (MV Automatics);

Nismo Body Kit (full);

18" Wheels;

Tein Aus Spec Superstreet Coilovers;

Rear Camber arms;

Z32 AFM;

Gizzmo MSIBC boost controller;

Tinted Windows;

Relocated oil filter and oil cooler;

Custom Stainless Intercooler Piping;

20k for the 34 which i think is pretty good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...