Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will get slightly more lag. I went from a Hybrid RS Spec cooler which was 600 x 300 x 96 (or something) with 3" piping to a Blitz CS 622 x 265 x 80 and 2.5" piping. In terms of RPM and hitting fool boost, not much, maybe only 100 RPM.

However, on / off throttle response is amazing and noticably improved compared with the Hybrid. Haven't tried it in the summer yet though.

If it's for the the spirited street / odd track day then don't go anymore than 90 for sure, even 80 would be fine if it's an efficient cooler like ARC, Blitz or the Jap likes.

More information would be nice such as your intended use and budget.

Do you drive the race car around town? :)

A larger core will increase lag. Wether it's noticeable or not, depends.

If the VLt is auto/stall then it wouldn't be as much of a problem either.

Either way you won't lose HP.

His question was if its too big. No, its not too big. Simple answer. No there isnt any horsepower loss and lag difference is not even noticeable. We went from a 600x300x75mm pwr gtr cooler to an A.R.E 600x300x115mm gtr cooler and there is no difference on the dyno and no difference on the track. However, on the street its a slightly different matter, but my guess is it wouldnt even be noticeable there either.

No the race car isnt driven around town.

cheers for the responses guys.

Cooler is a 600x305x115 and I already purchased it.. was a bit of an impulse buy but oh well... my old 75mm thick, 2 and a half inlet/outlet ARE cooler was starting to reach it's limits at around 23-24 pound - im guessing due to the inlet/outlet size and but mostly due to a quite a few crushed fins from retarded tow truck drivers over the years. As long as the difference in lag is minimal and I can run more boost I will be happy. I will eventually upgrade to a 42r anyway which will probably be more suited to the cooler.

In reference to R31Nismoid's comment, the car currently has a 2speed glide behind it.

I guess all I can do is see when fullboost is with my current cooler and then see what the difference is with the new one and keep you guys posted!

His question was if its too big. No, its not too big. Simple answer. No there isnt any horsepower loss and lag difference is not even noticeable. We went from a 600x300x75mm pwr gtr cooler to an A.R.E 600x300x115mm gtr cooler and there is no difference on the dyno and no difference on the track. However, on the street its a slightly different matter, but my guess is it wouldnt even be noticeable there either.

No the race car isnt driven around town.

On my SR20 I noticed a difference when going off / on the throttle but not much if any in terms of lag and hitting full boost.

It's important to consider the application for that reason above IMO, but it's not really problem if the core is larger. A larger one will tolerate more PSI anyway so long as the piping diameter matches up efficiently to the core so you're not running 2.5" piping on a 600 x 300 x 150 core when it requires a 3" pipe setup.

Core size and piping diameter I think has to match how much pressure your running that's what's affecting response. The larger core and piping will mean a slower velocity getting to the intake manifold and smaller core an piping will mean a faster velocity however, too small will affect power output as it may become a restriction.

Read somewhere that the inlet/outlet size of the turbo should be the base size you should start with determining the piping and intercooler core size for optimal

Don't ask me where I read that as I really don't remember, I read alot.

Corky Bell's book explains how to work out what size piping and intercooler to use for what horsepower you want to achieve. I remember it saying you need about 1.5 times the airflow to achieve your desired bhp. So 1000bhp would require about 1500cfm of flow. Also there was something about working out piping size based on keeping air velocity inside the tube under 450ft/sec otherwise drag and friction become too much of a problem past that point. It was something like airflow in cfm/ the internal area of the piping and then convert it to ft per sec.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...