Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And yes I have done searches on previous threads & from that I have Questions I hope you guys can help me with or put me in touch with people who have done this. Ok my car 1998 S1. Doner car is a 2000 model RS4 S2 correct me if Iam wrong R33GTR box? Push or pull?

This is a list of parts I think I need as sourced through searches.

1. Do i need the flywheel & bolts off doner manual car or will the auto one ok? (knowledge on flywheels/transmitions limited as you can see)

2. Clutch pressure plate & bolts.

3. Spigot bush

4. Bellhousing bolts. (I think there longer in the manual)

5. Clutch master & Slave.

6. Clutch piping line

7. Clutch & Brake pedals with mounting bracket & bolts

8. Handbrake lever, mounting bracket, cable & bolts

9. CTR console

Please add to my shopping list if I have missed anything. Any help will be appreciated.

If I go ahead with project any volunteers to assist will be rewarded handsomely (Free Beer-Food)Ha! Ha!I'm in the Newcastle area. NSW

Thanks again Shane

Is your donor car a factory manual (RS4-S) or is it an auto that was converted? If it's an RS4-S the gearbox will be pull type.

You should be able to use the flywheel from the donor car without any problems.

I dont know whether the flywheel bolts differ from auto or manual, but I would be going brand new ones from nissan anyway, rather than reusing old ones.

As for your other parts, looks like you have most of it covered. You will also need the manual footrest, and the rubber boots around the gear shifter.

I'm going to be doing the conversion very soon, here is my parts list if you want to look at it

Manualconversionpartslist.pdf

you dont have a flywheel in your stagea at the moment you have a drive plate/flex plate with a torque convertor bolted to it. you will need the flywheel as stated above. i would also say you need the flywheel bolts to suit given that the flywheel will be much thicker than the plate that comes off. not sure but possibly the gearbox mount and tailshaft are different?

Thanks Taylor... When it comes to gearboxes i'm like a fish out of water. Hopefully after this conversion my knowledge on them will improve...I think i'm ok with using the auto Tailshafts & mounts as I found in a search done previous

Cheers Brian,yes it is a factory manual. So is the factory a R33 or R32? If you don't mind me asking how much was your new clutch, spigot bush & gasket set?

I dont know whether the RS4-S is an R33 GTR or a GTS-4 gearbox, or if there is even a difference between the two. It's definitely not an R32 item though.

I cant remember the exact price off the top of my head at the moment, I bought the seal kit and clutch from www,kudosmotorsports.com, as well as a couple of other bits and pieces.

Remember that push type clutches are cheaper than pull type though, so you will probably have to pay a little bit more for whatever clutch you choose

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...