Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And yes I have done searches on previous threads & from that I have Questions I hope you guys can help me with or put me in touch with people who have done this. Ok my car 1998 S1. Doner car is a 2000 model RS4 S2 correct me if Iam wrong R33GTR box? Push or pull?

This is a list of parts I think I need as sourced through searches.

1. Do i need the flywheel & bolts off doner manual car or will the auto one ok? (knowledge on flywheels/transmitions limited as you can see)

2. Clutch pressure plate & bolts.

3. Spigot bush

4. Bellhousing bolts. (I think there longer in the manual)

5. Clutch master & Slave.

6. Clutch piping line

7. Clutch & Brake pedals with mounting bracket & bolts

8. Handbrake lever, mounting bracket, cable & bolts

9. CTR console

Please add to my shopping list if I have missed anything. Any help will be appreciated.

If I go ahead with project any volunteers to assist will be rewarded handsomely (Free Beer-Food)Ha! Ha!I'm in the Newcastle area. NSW

Thanks again Shane

Is your donor car a factory manual (RS4-S) or is it an auto that was converted? If it's an RS4-S the gearbox will be pull type.

You should be able to use the flywheel from the donor car without any problems.

I dont know whether the flywheel bolts differ from auto or manual, but I would be going brand new ones from nissan anyway, rather than reusing old ones.

As for your other parts, looks like you have most of it covered. You will also need the manual footrest, and the rubber boots around the gear shifter.

I'm going to be doing the conversion very soon, here is my parts list if you want to look at it

Manualconversionpartslist.pdf

you dont have a flywheel in your stagea at the moment you have a drive plate/flex plate with a torque convertor bolted to it. you will need the flywheel as stated above. i would also say you need the flywheel bolts to suit given that the flywheel will be much thicker than the plate that comes off. not sure but possibly the gearbox mount and tailshaft are different?

Thanks Taylor... When it comes to gearboxes i'm like a fish out of water. Hopefully after this conversion my knowledge on them will improve...I think i'm ok with using the auto Tailshafts & mounts as I found in a search done previous

Cheers Brian,yes it is a factory manual. So is the factory a R33 or R32? If you don't mind me asking how much was your new clutch, spigot bush & gasket set?

I dont know whether the RS4-S is an R33 GTR or a GTS-4 gearbox, or if there is even a difference between the two. It's definitely not an R32 item though.

I cant remember the exact price off the top of my head at the moment, I bought the seal kit and clutch from www,kudosmotorsports.com, as well as a couple of other bits and pieces.

Remember that push type clutches are cheaper than pull type though, so you will probably have to pay a little bit more for whatever clutch you choose

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Say you've just laid all your filler and your about to start sanding, how large is the sanding block your using?  Like a high fill primer? Technically possible but would be a nightmare. Just guessing from the photo, but they look small enough that you might get away with using a 1k spot putty. Normally you'd use something like this on pinholes but with the type of project you're working on I'd give it a go. 
    • Omg Brake pedal removal.. FML!!
    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
  • Create New...