Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This GTR is street reg and with one hardcore RB26 inside.

Car has already gone 730 HP at the wheels on ultimate 98 pump fuel without pushing it hard and in full daily driven street trim. This engine will go a GENUINE 800 HP at the tires on ultimate 98 fuel - that is an outrageous figure considering it is still 2.6 and is a street licensed car.

The existing engine package will run enormous HP if lent on with a few minor changes to exhaust and intake. This is a 1000 flywheel hp GTR.

It has traveled less than 2000 km's since it was built from the ground up. Almost every part listed below was brand new when fitted. Have spent over 70K on the car ON TOP of the purchase price.

There is nothing inside this engine that is not of the highest standards. Cyogenically treated parts, ceramic coatings, moly coatings, the best parts and very detailed fabrication.

WEDS 18 x 10.5 forged rims

Bridgestone REO1R tyres

Front and rear LSD's

1000 HP NPC clutch

Haltech Platinum ECU

Bride Race seats

1/2 Roll Cage

HKS Hyper max suspension

PPG straight cut dog engagement gearbox

Project101 8.5 Ltr Sump and baffle system

Project101 Head drain

Project101 Oil cooler pod and extraction vent in front bar

Project101 Battery case

Custom Fuel cell

ENGINE - 11,000 RPM spec

JUN Full counterweighted crankshaft

CP Pistons - Ceramic and moly coated

Nitto I Beam Billet rods

JUN Oil pump

N1 Water pump

Fully prepped block

ROSS Full Metal Jacket

Heavilly Ported head

Stainless oversized valves

Bronze race guides

Titanium retainers

Tomei double springs

Tomei 280 10.8 camshafts

Tomei adjustable cam gears

HKS 3037 Pro turbo kit (fully rebuilt)

Hypertune ceramic coated manifold

Single throttle body

110mm Greddy cooler

More pics, details and engine specs available. Please don't waste time asking for a drive unless you are ready to buy.

Please contact Danny on 08 93555101 or send a pm.

Price $53000 I am happy to organise sending the car interstate at buyers expense.

2069-Engine1.jpg

2069-081220093337.jpg

2069-081220093335.jpg

2069-181220093401.jpg

2069-081220093339.jpg

2069-230620092639.jpg

2069-260520092403.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369665-wa-nissan-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...