Jump to content
SAU Community

Good Mechanic In The Western Suburbs

Mid_Nite_R33

By Mid_Nite_R33,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mid_Nite_R33 Mentor

Mid_Nite_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

chasers are good and dr drift is pretty good aswell

Chasers is great but expensive, Dr.drift is booked out for the next 2 weeks, i need someone to look into my overheating issue, most likely a water pump change..

Mid_Nite_R33 Mentor

Mid_Nite_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Whats symptoms? Losing water? How long till it begins to overheat etc?

The car has brand new radiator, thermostat, the block has been flushed out a couple months ago. Now it still has brown sludge built up in the new radiator, car warms up quickly then sits at around 90C on most short drive but if i drive for a long time it can get to 98C, so either the water pump isnt keeping up/is stuffed which was probably never changed on a 15yo car, flow problems? or possibly something to do with the head gasket?

Mid_Nite_R33 Mentor

Mid_Nite_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Could be some air still in it its suprising how much problems it can cause. Id give it a real good bleed first before going anywhere. Is your thermostat opening?

Thermostat is new, after a drive with the car fully warm the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom one isnt even warm, WTF is going on?? im so over this.....going down to chasers 2moro so they can look at it :S

Mid_Nite_R33 Mentor

Mid_Nite_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ye its not opening if bottom one isnt warm. Common mistake is when you put too much off that gasket goo for the thermo you can jam the jiggle valve aswell which traps air.

well the car doesnt cook, it just sits hot and get hotter (90C +) as u drive for more than half an hour, should i just take out the thermo and drive the car without it to see if anything improves?

cheers

Mid_Nite_R33 Mentor

Mid_Nite_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ye its not opening if bottom one isnt warm. Common mistake is when you put too much off that gasket goo for the thermo you can jam the jiggle valve aswell which traps air.

Looks like a flow problem, im just gonna take out the thermo and run the car without for a while and see how it goes and also run a radiator cleaner and do another flush.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

I had the same probelm like you describe bottom hose wasnt hot and it would get to about 90 and slowly climb up. Was the thermostat and air in my case but yeah see how you go without it just make sure you bleed it! Wait until coolant is pissing out of that bleeding screw with no bubbles.

Mid_Nite_R33 Mentor

Mid_Nite_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had the same probelm like you describe bottom hose wasnt hot and it would get to about 90 and slowly climb up. Was the thermostat and air in my case but yeah see how you go without it just make sure you bleed it! Wait until coolant is pissing out of that bleeding screw with no bubbles.

thanks for your input boostn !

Well i took out the thermostat earlier today, it had brown rusty sludge build up on the outlet side which connects to the bottom radiator hose which also had the same build up in it, on the block side of the thermostat it was all nice and clean with green coolant still inside the block, clearly no circulation or what??

Anyway i connected everything back up (minus the thermostat) and ill run that radiator cleaner through it over the next week or so..is there any better way of cleaning out rust build up ?

Yeah ill definately bleed it via that screw near the intake manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...