Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't want to do this but the car has sat in the shed for 2 years now and never gets driven anymore. Tough call but I've decided to start parting it. The car still has many of the parts still fitted to it and will be removed over the next few weeks. Also please don't get upset if pm's take a few days to be answered.

Pair -5 turbos $1500

Set of Michelin Pilot Slicks 18inch (about 265 wide. Need to check) $400 Lots of rubber left.

V8 supercar wing carbon fibre with machined harrop struts - White - Ex Kmart racing VT - It works - Dinted the back of my boot in at Phillip Island $600

Power FC and hand controller with tune to suit the -5's with std inj/afm $850

Set of centre gauges from R32 $50

HKS VPC. Comes with everything req'd. Use this to remove your AFM's on your gtr and still run std or pfc ecu. Allows control of fuel mixtures to make your car run safe AFR's. Uses its own Map sensor and inlet temp sensor plus all std motor sensors. $250

Set of front guard liners and front under tray. Has factory front brake ducts and I won't seperate. $150 Getting very rare!

R32 3inch exhaust with seperate de-cat pipe. Has centre muffler, no rear muffler, just straight throught to back $100

R32 GTR body fuel cap/flap missing hinge $FREE

R32 GTR G-Sensor $100

R32 GTR rear diff with 1.5 or 2 way. Need to remove it and see brand and type. Its very tight $650

OS Giken sprung centre triple plate. Was about 80% about last look. Prob only travelled 2000k since with 2 trackdays since $1750 Awesome clutch! Push type.

Full suspension setup consisting of custom valved shocks out of SK production car with adj height treaded sleeves. Springs 7kgmm and 5kgmm. Whiteline swaybars. Cusco upper arms front 3.5deg and rear adj. Tein front adj castor rods. This setup gives more confidence than you could ever imagine in a R32 GTR at the track or on the street. $2200

New R/H sill panel $100 Suit GTR/GTST

R32 R/H tail light $FREE

Pair Volk Circlar rims 18x9.5 +38mm offest. $300. These sell for around 1500-2000 set.

R32 R/H mirror $25

R33 GTR lowered rear springs for std style shocks. Sits very nice $25

R32 GTR in STI blue with 88mm HKS forged pistons, Cam gears, button clutch, chipped ecu, 100mm FMIC, new 324mm rotors and braided lines all round, Caliper spacers, new rear slotted rotors, rebuilt calipers all round, smooth g/box and tight transfer case, 320kmh Nismo speedo, Cusco strut braces, lipped out rear guards, 3.5 inch exhaust plus more. Complied and previously registered with no defects. Perfect start to a quick daily or start of track car. $13000neg

Melbourne 40 min south of city or can meet at Moorabbin Airport duding work hours. Happy to post.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Can't believe you're selling the wing....

edit: And the car!!! What are you doing mate?

I'll probably grab the slicks off you. I'll give you a buzz sometime to chat.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...