Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have the following things for sale:

2 x sets of stock coilpacks (in Splitfire boxes, but they are NOT Splitfires!) - $10 each set

1 x stock R33 airbox w/ AFM (pink label, series 2) - AFM possibly broken, box is fine - $60

1 x AFM (in addition to one above), pink label, series 2 - AFM possibly broken - $10

1 x K&N Panel Filter (used) - $10

Please note: I am selling these items as is. I was about to throw them in the bin as I'm doing a major house cleanup, but thought I may as well put them up here just in case anyone was interested.

Shipping costs will be on top of the item cost, but I will only charge you at cost. I would say the smaller items should make it anywhere in Australia for $10 or less, while the airbox may be up to $20.

Other notes:

The AFM's were not working for me. Both of these were on my car at some stage and were working fine, but were then replaced when they started playing up. I have tried spraying AFM cleaner on them and they still didn't work properly. I have seen a couple of people say these can be fixed, however.

The airbox is for sale since I already have my own on my car. I bought one of the AFM's off another forum member and he gave me the whole airbox too.

The panel filter is dirty as I have had it on my car for a while, and had to take it off since the cleaning oil was stuffing up my AFM.

The coilpacks have both been on my car and were causing slight misfires at WOT. I have tried siliconing one set but this didn't seem to make a difference, so I bought a set of Splitfires. The other set of Splitfires I sold onto a friend for his own car, hence the second box :) I know a few people have managed to get their originals back to normal so buy both sets and pick the best ones! :)

img1634h.th.jpg img1630kl.th.jpg img1638x.th.jpg img1639vv.th.jpg img1641q.th.jpg img1646j.th.jpg img1651y.th.jpg

Good to see a realistic price on airbox!! Good luck with sale of gear but doubt you will need it.

Thanks for that... all items are sold pending payment already!!

Yes, when looking around for airbox prices I was seeing up to $300!!... but that was with the snorkel. Wasn't sure if that's why they were so expensive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...