Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have changed my mind and decided to sell my R33 instead of replacing the engine.

It's a 1993 R33 GTS series 1 with a suspeced spun bottom end bearing

asking 5K neg

ENGINE/DRIVELINE/ETC

  • Factory manual
  • Heavy duty clutch
  • Catback exaust with 3" cannon exaust
  • Engine oil & oil filter changed every 7,500 km
  • Gear box oil just changed
  • Brakes fluid just changed (inc bleading of all lines all the way through)
  • Recently changed radiator fluid
  • 18*,***kms (mostly highway, I live in Whyalla)
  • King Lowered Springs
  • KYB shock (less then 10,000kms old)

EXTERIOR

  • Full viva garage type 2 bodykit (light damage to front bar, nothing structural to the car)
  • 25mm flared guards front and rear
  • re-spray in blaze blue (outside and door jams only)
  • Xennon lights (low beam)
  • stock rims with near new tyres, can arrange for some 17" ROH rims to come with sale

INTERIOR

  • Very good condition, besides wear on right side of drivers seat and wear on handbrake "grip"
  • Genuine skyline floor mats (all 5)
  • Average sound system; 4" JBL parcel shelf, clarion cd player
  • Momo steering wheel with boss kit
  • Isotta shifter
  • Climate Control globes replaced with white 40,000MCD LED's (very bright white light)
  • Ignition light also replaced with 40,000MCD LED

THE BAD

Knocking noise from engine, 90% sure its a big end bearing. has not been driven since the noise started

slight power steering leak, one of the seals in the pump is on it's way out

flat battery, car has been sitting there for a couple of months

This car would either be great for someone as a first car or someone on their p's, although a new engine or a bottom end rebuild will be required.

Also would make a good shell if you have written off your R33 and just need to transplant parts.

Or just make some cash and either replace the engine or part it out

I'm interested in keeping the following parts (price will be reduced accordingly)

Gearbox

cat-back exhaust

The car is currently located in Whyalla SA, but can transport to adelaide

Best bet would be to text me on 0407971706

Cheers Luke

Photo's will be up by 2moro

Edited by 2FST4U.R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369903-r33-for-sale-sa/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure how much it will cost didn't get it priced as no one in whyalla (country town) wanted to touch it, if could do all the work yourself it would cost a few hundred bucks in parts

seeing as a low km rb25de long motor can be found for well under $1000 can't see the point in using a 180,000km+ engine, plus it would be heaps easier to replace then repair.

Pretty keen to get rid of it seeing as i just bought a new turbo and few other bits and peices for the 180, so give us a reasonable offer and it's yours

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369903-r33-for-sale-sa/#findComment-6016531
Share on other sites

you would have to upgrade the brakes as well (i think it's only the fronts from memory) front calipers and disks are normally around $300 or so

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369903-r33-for-sale-sa/#findComment-6023383
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...