Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all ,after removing boot sub/twin amp setup from my r33,i then installed a new stereo useing the aeropro connectors,

wouldnt work ,connected up a earth where the factory plug had none but the aeropro plug did,great all working,park car in shed.

next morning went to sort out electric aerial(motor working but no up or down),removed from bracket and left connected,ignition on,door beeper slowly stops beeping(quieter and

quieter then nothing),

stereo not working now.

test red wire from stereo(ign on acc),power good,test yellow wire from stereo very faint power but only after switching ign on,

(still no door beeper and no radio power)

run power from other switch(from one of the climate control plugs)to the yellow wire,door beeper works and stereo works,

so some how after removing the electric aerial from its

bracket,and fitting a new better battery,im looseing voltage to the yellow wire on the adaptor(also tested on oem plug side and same there),

also since this has been happening the battery light is now on in the dash,checked and rechecked both earth strap and pos lead at battery end,

at soem stage during all of this i was moveing the aerial about while still connected and noticed a change in the beeper sound,but since no beeper..

un plugged the elec aerial ,no change,

all seems good and there is plenty of cranking power when starting the engine...

help please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370429-r33-gtst-electrical-problem/
Share on other sites

Hey Jamie, you checked all the fuse? i just replace my died battery today on my R33 Gtst with stereo sound system. and then after that i start my car then the battery light is on on my dash and no power on the radio as well. Pretty much same what you having right now. but have power on window/light/Air cond etc. And then i went back to SuperCheap because i got the battery there, the guy checked for me and my power was on 10.5v on starting engine and V doesnt go up when we rev the engine. And then he said to me, the alternator is broken and need to get it replace as soon as possible otherwise it won't charge the battery and the battery will go flat very fast. I am not 100% sure he is right but i will go around and ask about the alternator.

hey thanks for the replies,actually after the post from DVS JEZ,I went back and went over the fuse`s again,

found 2 were in fact buggered even though to look at they seemed fine.

so thanks guys much appreciated,your prompts lead me to sorting it out.

I spent hours pulling my hair out over something I should have checked more carefully.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...