Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto Electrician

aky

By aky,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

aky Rookie

aky

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok guys need a reliable auto electrician to come and have a look at my R33 as i think i might have damaged some electric parts when trying to jump start the car yesterday. I put the cables the wrong way (i know stupid, but hey shit happens) and had some smoke coming from inside the car dashboard. The car does not start at all, it will not even crank, all other electronics work in the car if the key is put in ignition.

So yes anyone can recommend an electrician that will not charge an arm and a leg that could come to my place and have a look at it.

Location: Merrylands

Edited by aky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370475-auto-electrician/
Share on other sites
aky Rookie

aky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Checked the fuses in the boot, they look to be fine. I was thinking of maybe taking the fuses to supercheap and getting a new battery, then replace them all and see how it goes. But would still need an auto electrician in case that does not work.

aky Rookie

aky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Went to chk the fuses under the dashboard 2nit, thought to my self lets see if it turns on, surprise surprise it turned on and i took it for a little drive everything looked fine. Parked the car then tried to start it again about 30min later and it will not start, but it at least it makes clicking sounds now. So now i am thinking that it might be the battery that is dead, so will get a new battery tomorrow and will see what happens.

aky Rookie

aky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bought a new battery, put in and it started without any issues. Took it for a drive all good, started the car after 30 min again and its still starting without any problems. So it looks like the battery was the problem after all, the other battery was all watery when i took it out so must have damaged it when trying to jump start it. So relived thought i might have done some serious damage to my car.

  • 4 weeks later...
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Nerds lol

I had smoke come from my blinker switch today... Can't be good ay lol

Your relay/blinker might be on its way out. Smoke is never good. What is it? Unless its a fuse melting(which is very unlikely as they designed to blow, unless you put a higher rated 40a fuse in a 5a slot) it is most likely the wire casing melting. This isn't good. One second is nothing, but 3 - 5 seconds is enough to get rid of the plastic and leave bare wire exposed which can cause havoc. My mates ford laser smoked for about 3 seconds, he used the wrong fuse which didn't blow and allowed too much current through. The end result was a bundle of wire with minimal shielding literally melted together. He traded the car in the next day.

I'm pretty handy with electronics, if anyone needs help, I'm near Parramatta and can see what I can do. Ive fixed all issues both electrical and mechanical in all my cars and helped my brother rig up two of his cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...