Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I have an issue with the head lights on my V, i have just bought a really nice ken style kit and i have noticed that my head lights are cloudy it looks terrable, and i was woundering if anyone has the same issue and if it is fixable. Soz if this is covered in another post i had a search and couldnt turn up anything so if it is just point me in the right direction :D I can get some pics but not right now as im at work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370619-cloudy-head-lights/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys

I have an issue with the head lights on my V, i have just bought a really nice ken style kit and i have noticed that my head lights are cloudy it looks terrable, and i was woundering if anyone has the same issue and if it is fixable. Soz if this is covered in another post i had a search and couldnt turn up anything so if it is just point me in the right direction :D I can get some pics but not right now as im at work.

headlight restoration kit from autobarn for about 40 bucks. takes an easy hour. sands,polishes and covers with uv protectant. lasts for years and comes up like show room quality.

have used it on 2 R33s.

4491857988_1e45965e3f.jpg

this is exactly what ive been using. good luck.

Edited by Blueone

Used this stuff on my V35 headlights and they came up like brand new

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-GTR-R33-R34-V35-S15-Skyline-Silvia-Headlight-fix-/220811068211?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33695d8333

I thought I had cloudiness on the inside too, but it was 90% on the outside.

Hmmmmmmmmm moisture?

Is there any yellowing on the outside or anything looks like it could be on the outside?

Or does it really just look like moisture on the inside?

Edited by Blueone

Thats what i was thinking but im not 100% sure, ether way i need to fix it lol, anyone have any experence with replacing them? i have seen some for th G35 but i have also read that they are not street legal here as they sit differently in the car making the lights blind oncoming traffic.....the cops would just love that

o.O auto correct p1gs to cops lol

Edited by T4NK

Thats what i was thinking but im not 100% sure, ether way i need to fix it lol, anyone have any experence with replacing them? i have seen some for th G35 but i have also read that they are not street legal here as they sit differently in the car making the lights blind oncoming traffic.....the cops would just love that

o.O auto correct p1gs to cops lol

If you got aftermarket headlights just get them calibrated to point properly and don't use hid that is too bright. id hope you'd be sweet with the cops. but im sure some dick would come along.

Yeh, im still on my Ps and driving a V so thats not a good starting point, i even went into the RTA and asked them if i could drive it on my Ps and they said yes its not ont he list of prohibited cars so i was like sweet, then a few months later i find its on the RTA site in small print but i think that was added after i bought the car cauz i checked the site also, and the updates to the site where done recently as per there last update at the bottom of the page. But anyways im off Ps on friday so nock on wood to not have any issues b4 then. But i really need a solution to the head lights soon as im about to have the ken style kit installd and its gona look hot but the lights will be a turn off for me in the present condition.

Edited by T4NK

Hmmmmmmmmm moisture?

Is there any yellowing on the outside or anything looks like it could be on the outside?

Or does it really just look like moisture on the inside?

No yellowing at all, it just looks like it has clouds of moisture on the inside i mean the covers are weatherd but no distinct yellowing of them

I would love just to get the lights below and fit them with the xenon bulbs but i think i would need ballasts for that im not to sure as im not up to speed with the lights on the cars

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FACTORY-OEM-INFINITI-G35-COUPE-XENON-HEADLIGHTS-L-R-/170658634391?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bc0c1a97

Edited by T4NK

I was just about to say, i put a film on mine and the cloudyness improved drastically.

before hand i also used Meguiars scratch X which helped alot, mine looked very similar to yours....

:-)

otherwise my headlights will be for sale soon. (with the blue film)

I was just about to say, i put a film on mine and the cloudyness improved drastically.

before hand i also used Meguiars scratch X which helped alot, mine looked very similar to yours....

:-)

otherwise my headlights will be for sale soon. (with the blue film)

Oh hey vspot:) speak of the demon.

This man knows how to do skylines. always remember why you signed up to boost lol.

Edit:Damnit i live in surfers and I've still never seen your car :(

Edited by Blueone

to get rid of the yellowness, i just wet rubbed mine with 1000 then 2000 grit paper, then used plastic polish. about $7 total outlay, yellow is gone. now im just left the internal foggyness like youre talking about.... which shows up baaad with HID's. dont know how you will fix this, but i am building new custom headlights to kill 2 birds with one stone...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...