Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, :action-smiley-069:

What mods should i do first?. not to sure any help will be appricated.

Car gets driven nearly every day so reliability is a must and would like to get close to 180-200rwkw's for now. Engine's stock apart from apexi n1 cat-back exhaust. Budget is around 2k not including nistune. I was thinking of this:

FMIC,electronic boost controller,dump/downpipe,wideband AFR metre,hi flow panel filter, and then a nistune( anyone know a rough estimate of these fitted and tuned) is there any other things I would need to run higher boost safely?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371148-r33-s2-mods/
Share on other sites

a few things, save your money and get a manual boost controller. they are a darn sight cheaper (turbotech is about $30 on ebay) and work nearly as good. the money you save could be spent better elsewhere. also don't bother with an air/fuel meter unless you plan on doing the tuning yourself and only do that if you know what you're doing otherwise you could end up with a blown motor. a nistune will set you back about $1000 installed, including the z32 ecu which you would need to run it.

my advice would be to just get a FMIC, dump/front pipe, 3" cat (if you don't have one already), manual boost controller and a nistune if you want that little bit extra. then just run your boost at about 12psi and it should be close to your goal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371148-r33-s2-mods/#findComment-5917855
Share on other sites

oem coils will perform as well as splitfires. as for whether you need them or not, i wouldn't bother buying them until you have increased the boost and seen whether it misfires or not. if it doesn't misfire then save yourself a few hundred dollars.

also don't rule out yellowjacket coils. they seem to perform well also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371148-r33-s2-mods/#findComment-5918184
Share on other sites

it's not a fwd, so shouldn't need a flex joint unless your engine mounts are shagged allowing the engine to move a lot, especially if you still have the bracket from the gearbox to the exhaust as it will make sure the dump/front pipe moves with engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371148-r33-s2-mods/#findComment-5923857
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...