Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a client of mine's 350Z with only 15,500km on it and 4 years old !

Process as follows:

Wheels Soaked and cleaned

Foam Soaking

Hand Wash

Clay Bar

Hand Wash

2 Stage Correction

Standard interior vac, dress, ect

Products used:

Bowdens Own Body Gel- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/node/260 for washing and used with Nerta Foam Solution for Foaming

Iron X- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=CP16&cat=22 for wheels

Sonus Clay Bar

Menzerna Polishes- http://waxit.com.au/products.asp?cat=70 PO106 followed with PO85RD to refine

Bowdens Body Cleanser- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/node/262 prior to wax application

Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109- for sealing

Swissvax Shield- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=S10211&cat=4

Opti-Coat- on the wheels

Zaino Z-10 and Z-9- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=Zkitl&cat=67 on leather

Bowdens Own Tyre Sheen- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/node/406 for tyre dressing

IMG_4315Large-1.jpg

IMG_4316Large-1.jpg

IMG_4317Large-1.jpg

Foam Soaking

IMG_4319Large-1.jpg

IMG_4320Large-1.jpg

Iron-X Soaking

IMG_4322Large-1.jpg

IMG_4323Large-1.jpg

IMG_4327Large-1.jpg

IMG_4329Large-1.jpg

Sonus Clay Bar after only bonnet and front guards! on a only 15,500km car.

IMG_4331Large-1.jpg

IMG_4332Large-1.jpg

IMG_4333Large-1.jpg

Water sticking much?

IMG_4334Large-1.jpg

Now for the horror shots

IMG_4341Large-1.jpg

IMG_4344Large-1.jpg

IMG_4346Large-1.jpg

IMG_4347Large-1.jpg

IMG_4349Large-1.jpg

Zaino for the leather

IMG_4361Large-1.jpg

All taped up ready to go!

IMG_4368Large-1.jpg

Couple shots after polishing a panel

IMG_4370Large-1.jpg

IMG_4377Large-1.jpg

Some 50/50 shots

IMG_4384Large-1.jpg

No section left untouched

IMG_4390Large-1.jpg

Door plastics 50/50

IMG_4393Large-1.jpg

Edited by immacreflections
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371423-350z-detail-epic-change/
Share on other sites

Astonishing results on the swirl and web removal. Mate did you just change the post? Because the images were working a second account now it's just the URLS showing :mellow:

yes sorry i stuffed it up some how lol some where not working so i re-did them then none did, now they should all be working :) enjoy.

Regards,

Mitch

All good now... When I refreshed the page it sent my monitor into a loading frenzy :rolleyes: lol. Few questions for you:

1. Were the polishes/waxes machine applied or by hand?

2. If machined, using what and the style of buffing pads?

3. Are all products stated safe to use on clear without causing any damage? (I assume they would be if used on a 350z)

4. How long did the detail take?

Many thanks in advanced :D

All good now... When I refreshed the page it sent my monitor into a loading frenzy :rolleyes: lol. Few questions for you:

1. Were the polishes/waxes machine applied or by hand?

2. If machined, using what and the style of buffing pads?

3. Are all products stated safe to use on clear without causing any damage? (I assume they would be if used on a 350z)

4. How long did the detail take?

Many thanks in advanced :D

Sorry but I find loading a fair few pics good because there are alot of "playboy readers" out there :)

1. Polishes by machine waxes and sealants by hand

2. I used a DA Polisher with Lake Country pads, orange with the 106 and white constant pressure pad with 85RD

3. Yes all products are 100% safe on clears though with iron-x you don't want to let it dry, but this should be a general rule for all cleaning products.

4. The detail took me around 8 hours all up, though this can vary extremely with different paints and colours. I found the red on the this car extremely good to work with unlike some cars where finishing up on a white pad and 85RD will still leave minor holograms this car didnt so I left that as a final polishing stage and followed up with the Bowdens Own Paint Cleanser on a black Lake Country pad using the DA once again.

Regards,

Mitch

Immaculate Reflections

Can i just say, my best friend works for a large car detailing franchise over here in WA and does what i beleive is a fantastic job, even detailed my car perfectly before the car shows over here in WA in which the car did well in

but

NEVER have i seen someone take such pride in a clients car as to even sticky tape around the badges to ensure no grit etc gets caught, really impressed with you for doing that for your clients, not only do the results look fantastic, but i am really impressed with the care you took.

"A big picture is defined by little brush strokes"

Well done.

Can i just say, my best friend works for a large car detailing franchise over here in WA and does what i beleive is a fantastic job, even detailed my car perfectly before the car shows over here in WA in which the car did well in

but

NEVER have i seen someone take such pride in a clients car as to even sticky tape around the badges to ensure no grit etc gets caught, really impressed with you for doing that for your clients, not only do the results look fantastic, but i am really impressed with the care you took.

"A big picture is defined by little brush strokes"

Well done.

WOW....Thank you very much, I agree it is all the little areas that make the difference....I get asked why I do little parts sometimes and I always have the same answer the bits that people dont notice have been done but would notice if they werent are what takes it to the next level, door jams, inside petrol cap, rub all the dirty finger marks from the sun visors ect.... This is what I believe sets myself apart from most other detailing companies and I take a huge pride in.

Once again thanks for the very kind words.

Regards,

Mitch

Did you have any problems using iron X on brake rotors / pads? They Ruined my HAWK HP+ pads... i was thinking about using the sonax gel to clean the dust off without damaging the pads.

Nope though I dont get much on them as I spray the wheel not the brakes. Havent heard of this either.

  • 1 month later...

NEVER have i seen someone take such pride in a clients car as to even sticky tape around the badges to ensure no grit etc gets caught,

you need to check a few detailing forums :) OCD is an understatement sometimes with respects to some details carried out.

masking is detailing 101, it's not really to "ensure no grit etc gets caught", it's because when polishing with say a machine, a lot of those badges don't take too kindly to the abrasiveness of a machine pad and polish. It's protection, but it does help avoid polish residue to a certain extent as well. ]

ideally if you can, you just take the badges off...

fib5485.jpg

fib5494.jpg

fib5497.jpg

fib5503.jpg

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...