Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
How do you explain to RTA about the speedo readings being different out of curiosity??

If you want to find more info out, search the forums, dont chat in here. Im sure the RTA has no problem with your speedo showing 300 instead of 180... As you will notice most australian cars show over 180 on their speedo.

Nismo R33 GTR 320km/h white faced cluster with 39,852kms. It's still in the original box, $700ono.

I'm in Sydney, but will ship anywhere if purchaser pays for postage.

Please sms(preferable) or email me your number as I will be in Sydney later this week and I can pick up the dash. Ph. 0419277774 email [email protected]

Thanks,

John

  • 3 weeks later...
If you want to find more info out, search the forums, dont chat in here. Im sure the RTA has no problem with your speedo showing 300 instead of 180... As you will notice most australian cars show over 180 on their speedo.

Dave: FYI I was enquiring about the problems possibly to be encountered at the RTA NSW with ODOMETER readings being different, also I was asking the OWNER as he/she has the unit and may know this information possibly off hand. As I was a genuinly interested purchaser of this particular unit at the time I feel I was entitled to ask such a question, not only for myself, but other probable buyers.

To be publicly told "dont chat in here" annoyed me because of the above mentioned. As a moderater I think you need to review your tact!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...