Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wouldnt bother with water/meth if your running e85 as 99% of the time you reach MBT before any knock with e85. you might get some small gains from reduced temp but its nothing that couldnt be gained by simply running more boost with e85

This is a good answer I've lifted from the aquamist site explaining the cooling effect:

For more info please visit: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1832

Originally Posted by Richard L

The following charts are calculated based on:

10Kg of air, Gasoline's latent heat capacity of 350KJ/Kg

Water's latent heat capacity of 2256KJ/Kg

Methanol's latent heat capacity of 1109KJ/Kg

Injection water at different ratio to fuel at 100% water and 75% Water/25% Methanol. You can see the at 100% water injection, only 3% of w/f fuel ratio is enough to replace 2.5 point of a/f ratio (dotted line). As soon as 25% of Methanol is added, the a/f ratio is dropprd to 12.0 - loosing some cooling capacity

ScreenHunter_8.jpg

Each of the following chart show a 25% percent increase in Methanol concentration of the mix.

ScreenHunter_9.jpg

ScreenHunter_10.jpg

ScreenHunter_11.jpg

lastly, just methanol is added and no water. The chart on the right is 100% water

ScreenHunter_12.jpg

The two charts show (first and last) that you will require to inject twice the amount of methanol to equal the latent heat of water alone. Methanol is relatively low cost and very effective as a coolant so what is the problem?

When higher concentration of methanol is injected, you need to lean your engines a/f ratio to accommodate the extra fuel or your engine will bog down and loose power. Consequentially - one runs the risk of putting the engine into heat stress if the supply of methanol is suddenly interrupted. Injecting water does not affect the a/f ratio. It appears that 50/50 mix has the best of both worlds.

In either cases, having a good w/a injection system with reliable "system fault" diagnostic capability is essential especially if you are running a high concentration of Methanol.

__________________

Richard L

aquamist technical support

Yes, they say there is little benefit from running E85 and WMI, NOS and propane shots seem to be the next step.

The other alternative is to run straight methanol, you lose some of the cooling effect, but gain substantially in octane numbers and power delivery. But, like all such volatile fuels the danger limits are much higher as well. Melting pistons and methanol fires, and propane explosions are mentioned. However most seem to run with either 75/25 or 50/50, methanol when mixed in these ratio's is pretty much inert. Your gasoline tank is more of a danger than a 75/25 or 50/50 mixture.

water absorbs more heat but methanol increases overall octane by a fair bit. so with straight water you have max cooling but no octane boost, with straight methanol you have a big octane boost with a bit of cooling and a few hazards. 50/50 gives the best of both and is inert, so no danger at all.

water absorbs more heat but methanol increases overall octane by a fair bit. so with straight water you have max cooling but no octane boost, with straight methanol you have a big octane boost with a bit of cooling and a few hazards. 50/50 gives the best of both and is inert, so no danger at all.

:stupid: and not so stupid at all!!!

The other advantage over e85 is that you carry WMI with you, and E85 is only in the metro areas. So if you want to go from say Melbourne to Broken Hill or Alice Springs or even Brisbane then you will not find e85 except at Sydney and then you have to look for it.

Based on my driving, I'd get 6,000km out of my 4 quart = 2.8 litre tank.

And if your stuck then you can use certain types of windscreen washer fluid, those that are 70% methanol and 30% other stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
    • Hello everyone, I am happy to join you.
    • Whereabouts are you, that looks exactly like Akira's old car....
×
×
  • Create New...