Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Need some help here, im 6,2-6,2 in height and not the smallest guy so my dream car was a 34 i currently have a V35 and want to get the 34. When i sit in the 34 my head is brushing the roof and my legs are touching the wheel and ebrake. Does anyone know if i am able to extend the seat rails and put a lower seat in so i can move it back further and drop a smaller wheel into the car to allow me to fit?

(If this is posted in worng spot my bad)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372088-fitting-in-a-34gtt/
Share on other sites

Buy some aftermarket super low rails, but not sure if they will fit your stock seat, you might need to change your seat too..

I would love to do this, has anyone done this? i dont want to buy the car fit the rails then not fit.

im 6-4 n weigh in at 128 kgs i got a 33 n fit in

it fine however my sister has a 33 but has a deep dish drift

steering wheel and gtr seat and it makes heaps of difference

there is heaps more room in hers than

mine and my knee clears her turbo timer which

is mounted down the bottom left under the dash which

it didnt before maybe u could look at something similar for the 34

i imagine gtr seats and a new steerin wheel would be a fair bit cheaper

than a tt kit for a v lol

Tall guys make imports look so small. My mate is 6 foot something, like a tree, he took my silvia for a spin and when he drove back in the driveway I swear my car looked like a go kart with him in it.

Cars where designed for petite little japanese peoples I guess

Tall guys make imports look so small. My mate is 6 foot something, like a tree, he took my silvia for a spin and when he drove back in the driveway I swear my car looked like a go kart with him in it.

Cars where designed for petite little japanese peoples I guess

also designed for people with small hands to work on, LOL

I took my soon to be brother in law for a spin in the 33, he's 6'7, im 5'4... and I have factory seats, I had to have the sunroof open for his head.... hit boost and the back of his head hit the sunroof :P

LMAO hahahaha man thats gold, i would have to do the same open the sun roof and stick my head out and if it rains just dont drive lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...