Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this

I went and test drove a cheap r34 at a dealership today $15900 was the price but I though what the hey it might need a small amount of work but for the price I'd check it out

The car started up fine no smoke

Was idling at 2000rpm till it warmed up then settled down to 950rpm

Oil pressure and temperature were normal

BUT the check engine light did not turn off it stated on the entire test drive the car also didn't feel very like I expected I've owned and r33 before and the r33 felt like it had way more power

The dealer obviously tried to hide this by saying that when the car was picked up the driver filled the car with 91octane and that was the reason for the check engine light and lack of power

Could this be the case or is it more likely the engine is f**ked?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372624-91-octane-in-an-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

Yeah but had an s13 with a hole in the fuel tank I got it fixed and the stupid mechanic filled it up with 91 octane the car shook and spluttered an no check engine light

This car idled very very steady but just had no power and the check engine light worried me doesn't the light refer to an actually problem with the engine not the fuel supply?

if the knock sensors are registering a high amount of knock then it may come on. easiest thing to do would be to check the fault codes, or have them fill it with premium fuel and reset the ecu and see what that does. generally the CEL refers to an electrical issue (or damaged sensor). won't refer to the physical condition of the engine in 99% of cases

i got some better advice, find another car there is to many of these car on the market to even think of buying one with problems is just crazy remember it's a buyers market.

goodluck with your car hunting.

i got some better advice, find another car there is to many of these car on the market to even think of buying one with problems is just crazy remember it's a buyers market.

goodluck with your car hunting.

Yeah I ended up settling for a nice s2 r33 for $9500

It's stock as even has the airbox and SMIC so I'll save the excitement of owning an r34 for another 2-3years

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...