Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day. I have searched on this one and couldn't see anyone with anything remotely the same as my problem. There is a gremlin in my car, I will explain...

The car goes straight into 4th gear even when dead cold (the last stagea I drove stayed in 3rd for a few minutes, once warmed up then went into 4th - i assume this is the norm)

The O/D off button does nothing - stays in 4th all the time. The light comes up on the dash however.

Snow and Power buttons have no effect what so ever. The lights show they work.

The car drives beautiful and shifts as per normal, kicks back when given throttle, etc... But I'm definitely lacking the 'power' function, I believe this function should work if you give the car a hiding even with the power button not pushed in? O/D off would be most handy for going up hills, the car chops and changes gears like a bastard...

So I have checked all wiring, plugs and switch functions inside the car and under bonnet. Have traced all relevant wiring back, no damage or bad connections I can see. I haven't had a chance for a real good look underneath yet. I worked as an auto sparky for many years, I remember fixing a similar issue on an R31, it was a faulty speedo divider circuit in the back of the instrument cluster, I was able to diagnose it easily from wiring schematics...

Does anyone have any electrical schematics so I can work out how all this is supposed to work? Any other ideas?

Cheers

Paul.

Just checked the ATTESSA controller located in the LHS cargo area behind the trim, no error flashes on the LED... Anyone got pinouts for this controller? Only ones I can find are for what looks like earlier model skyline ATTESSA controllers that have 4 plugs, this one of mine has 1 big plug and a 10mm nut in the middle.

Had a good look under the car today, everything looks good and intact as far and the wiring harness goes...

It almost makes me think the car does not realise it is out of Park when it is in actual fact in Drive... Although the dash display of the transmission selector works.. I give up for now :wacko:

Still having no luck with this... I am wondering if there is a problem with the ECU, either faulty or possibly the wrong one (ie, ECU is from a R33 manual or something)... I'll have to check this after work.

Anyone got any ideas? This is driving me nuts!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...