Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This one? ;-)

Was my desktop pic for quite sometime, if only he knew how obsessed i was over his car he would have had a restraining order on me for it!

It was sold for quite a "large" amount of money sometime ago (approx 4 years ago) but i think it was worth every penny he was asking for. I think if you goole GTN1K it might even still direct you to his for sale thread on here from years ago!

This one? ;-)

Was my desktop pic for quite sometime, if only he knew how obsessed i was over his car he would have had a restraining order on me for it!

It was sold for quite a "large" amount of money sometime ago (approx 4 years ago) but i think it was worth every penny he was asking for. I think if you goole GTN1K it might even still direct you to his for sale thread on here from years ago!

post-167-0-85030600-1315310446_thumb.jpg

This one? ;-)

Was my desktop pic for quite sometime, if only he knew how obsessed i was over his car he would have had a restraining order on me for it!

It was sold for quite a "large" amount of money sometime ago (approx 4 years ago) but i think it was worth every penny he was asking for. I think if you goole GTN1K it might even still direct you to his for sale thread on here from years ago!

Not really. once you go wider than GTR it seems to prove difficult to keep it looking like a 33 and not a big POS. 32 can have guards the size of horses and still look like a 32 but 33 doesn't really like widebody as Much as would be liked.

GTN1K looks f**king awesome but unless you do what they did in that video i posted with the guards it just loses shape and starts to cease looking like a 33. front looks awesome but guards look f**ked compared to widebody R32.

Edited by 045HOW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...