Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, i recently updated my 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 coupe's boot, i made a mount to fit the R34 boot's sides (left and right). And for the amps, i just got a piece of wood, marked where the holes would sit for the amps, drilled it in, covered it with the black shit (as seen in the images) and screwed it into the back of the bottom section. I've also mounted LED lights along the top of the boot, and connected them to the OUTPUT of the sub's amp, so they beat to the music. It looks pretty sweet.

So yeah let me know what you think, or any other way i could improve the boot.

Any questions or such, let me know.

cheers guys.

post-81917-0-24778900-1312191543_thumb.jpg

post-81917-0-99229100-1312191546_thumb.jpg

post-81917-0-73852100-1312191551_thumb.jpg

post-81917-0-07571900-1312191555_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shnid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372723-r34-boot-layout-suggestions/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Here is the install I attempted myself today in my R34. Sorry for the holy thread revival batman thing, beats starting a new thread though.

7061217be743b35bb32cd558a249d314.jpg

Cheers,

Shaz

Did you take out the parcel shelf and make a custom box to fit the sub and place it there? I want a way to install my sub so it doesn't consume boot space lol.

Did you take out the parcel shelf and make a custom box to fit the sub and place it there? I want a way to install my sub so it doesn't consume boot space lol.

Hey mate,

I made that bit of MDF flat panel to fit snug in between the strut towers. The passenger side is tight, but there is a gap on the right hand side. I'm sure it would affect sound somehow, as it isn't sealed per say, but I got it all turned on yesterday, and it sounded good. It was way more punchy in the box I had it in, but it sounds pretty good the way it is. So yeah, no box. Just a flat panel of MDF, carpeted, and foam sealed around the edges. Amp is mounted in the boot, right below the boot release mechanism on the very back panel of the car. The sub is just 1 kicker 10" solobaric, and the amp is a fusion job.

Cheers,

Shazza

Edited by XS80ST

Hey mate,

I made that bit of MDF flat panel to fit snug in between the strut towers. The passenger side is tight, but there is a gap on the right hand side. I'm sure it would affect sound somehow, as it isn't sealed per say, but I got it all turned on yesterday, and it sounded good. It was way more punchy in the box I had it in, but it sounds pretty good the way it is. So yeah, no box. Just a flat panel of MDF, carpeted, and foam sealed around the edges. Amp is mounted in the boot, right below the boot release mechanism on the very back panel of the car. The sub is just 1 kicker 10" solobaric, and the amp is a fusion job.

Cheers,

Shazza

That sub will blow without a sealed box !! Mark my words

they like tiny boxes that will fit under the deck with ease !! So you can do it right ??

Hit me up if you want one designed for free

That sub will blow without a sealed box !! Mark my words

they like tiny boxes that will fit under the deck with ease !! So you can do it right ??

Hit me up if you want one designed for free

Hahaha. You were spot on man. I blew all 3 fuses in my amp the other day. I have a heap of leftover MDF, so I think I might actually enclose it now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...