Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my 1992 R32 GTR

Location: Bundaberg 4670 QLD (Car) / Gladstone 4680 QLD (Engine)

Asking: $10,000 or throw me an offer

Phone: 0408 196 973 (Luke) I work 6am to 6pm 5-6 days a week so call outside these hours or email as I don't check this site a lot.

Email: [email protected]

It has a blown engine which has been removed and stripped down. I no longer have the time, spare cash or room to rebuild this car. Was running 272.6rwkw on 14psi before it died. The Car does come with the complete stripped engine. I've had the block bores cleaned up, 20' was all that was needed to remove the damage (needs final honing to suit whatever pistons go in). It was original bores before this. 1 Turbo is blown. The body is straight and interior is clean. The car has always been garaged since I've owned it and is currently in Storage in Bundaberg QLD, with the Engine at my place in Gladstone QLD. Car is not registered. Plates will go with car. Tread is 90% on all 4 corners.

Running Gear:

N1 turbos

HKS type-S engine oil cooler

HKS fuel rail

HKS 900cc injectors

HKS cam gears

Tomei camshafts

Sard fuel reg

Alloy surge tank

Walbro fuel pump

External bosch 700hp fuel pump

Splitfire coil packs

Z32 airflow meters

Custom advan airbox

PWR radiator

HKS FMIC with HKS hard piping 600x300x110

HKS primary exhaust pipes

DBA 4000 series slotted rotors, std brake calipers

Bilstein coilovers

Cusco castor adjustables

Cusco camber adjustables rear

Midori upper adjustable camber arms

P1buddy club wheels 17x9.5's

Sparco racing seat

Greddy a-pillar dual pod guage holder (greddy boost gauge, greddy exhaust temp gauge)

Greddy profec-b electronic boost controller

Greddy turno timer

5Puk Jim Berry Clutch

Nismo strut brace

Apexi power fc

post-44593-0-48377800-1312281897_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-78442300-1312281936_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-17074400-1312282023_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-09282000-1312282291_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-69824400-1312282426_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-01770700-1312283270_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-10491000-1312283543_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372836-r32-gtr-1992-blown-engine-10000/
Share on other sites

Also forgot to note that I also have a new in the box N1 Oil pump to go with it, as well as the standard exhaust, air box and fuel rail and a after market rpm gauge with shift light. Should note to the the clutch is in need of a over hall as well.

post-44593-0-76184900-1312363673_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-86111500-1312363764_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Back on the market

Unfortunately the deposit holder has been unable to acquire the total funds needed to buy the car.

edit: added pics of engine parts packed to go

post-44593-0-85528000-1314177404_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-45167000-1314177482_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-15959200-1314177537_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-86057800-1314177579_thumb.jpg

Edited by puke22

I'm no mechanic but I believe a foreign body went through the block. The bores where fairly haggard and the tops of the pistons had a fair amount of pinging damage (as shown in the pics). The exhaust wheel on the rear turbo was also non existent (as shown in the pics, maybe a big enough brave enough piece of piston took it on?), although the front turbo wheel spins freely and feels to have no resistance or shaft play. The valves seem to have escaped damage and still seat nicely, as the crank and cam shafts also only seem to have normal wear. This is an uneducated theory but I believe the engine was just run too hard with too much boost on standard pistons for too long before I bought it and the rear turbo exhaust wheel finally gave up. I was able to start the car after it died (while driving sedately believe it or not) but it just sounded horrible so I killed it and eventually pulled it apart. It also had no weird sounds or knocks before it died. I believe it was just run too hard on standard pistons because it came with dyno sheets showing over 330rwkw when I bought it and I did not have it tuned and only had it run 272rwkw on 14psi when I had it tested personally. So I'm assuming it was detuned and sold off to me... Please note this is my own opinion and I have very little engine knowledge and this theory should not be taken as fact. I'd appreciate no flaming of my own opinion if this sounds completely retarded :P, I'm just being as honest as I can.

I have cleaned the crank and cam shafts up a little bit to shown wear and confirm there is no rust as the engine has been apart for over 1year now (I've left everything covered in oil and oiled where needed and wrapped in rags as I originally intended to have this rebuilt myself).

I did take this car to one test n tune drag meet in its short running life with me, it can be viewed running on this vid at 48sec and 1min25sec (I lost the drag at 1min 25sec as I beat my estimated time :P ran 12.2 sec best that night).

http://www.youtube.c.../39/lxKHVVZG7y0

post-44593-0-32841800-1314265990_thumb.jpg

post-44593-0-99607900-1314266065_thumb.jpg

Should also add the odometer reads 131000*kms, and the car has no rust that I'm aware of. I will most probably move the engine into storage with the car next weekend (03.09.11) so everything is together in Bundaberg. Will try to get some current photos and upload them.

post-44593-0-85155700-1314497034_thumb.jpg

Sweet jesus, if this is still available in a couple months i'll snap it up :P

Rebuild will set new owner back about 8k yeah? (Sorry not overly mechanically inclined)

If it goes before then, good luck to the new owner!!

Edited by thychiz

Sweet jesus, if this is still available in a couple months i'll snap it up :P

Rebuild will set new owner back about 8k yeah? (Sorry not overly mechanically inclined)

If it goes before then, good luck to the new owner!!

Might be more than 8k if you have to buy new turbos :(

8k would get a strong motor forgies etc

Some shops no where to hit ya

standard rebuild should be under 5

or put a short block from japan second hand and new turbos under 5

Do you want to sell the engine on its own?

I may consider selling the complete engine on its own and the car seperatly if I can the right offers on each. There has been a couple of people interested in only the car not including the engine.

I would much prefer to sell the complete car however, and for the people who have been and plan to offer 5-6k, please let me save your and my time with no. I will keep the car in storage for a rebuild at a later date if I cant get alot closer to 10k than 5-6k.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...