Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as some of you may know, my car hasn't been making the psssh sound when I go to fill up. Everytime I started up the car, I got the fuel smell in the cabin. DVS JEZ suggested its the fuel filler, the little gold thing the fuel cap screws into. Well today, I started up my car and saw the fumes of the fuel escaping from the fuel tank. This is not only a problem, but also a very dangerous one at that. Had a smoker been walking past, those fumes are sure to take a flame.

I don't have photos now but it is a very straight forward thing to do. I can get some pics etc.

What you need:

Gasket goo stuff(as long as its fuel resistant, it should be fine).

Wire brush

Flat head screwdriver

1) Pop off the fuel filler cover and remove the fuel cap

2) The metal fuel filler mechanism is simply, its just a cap holder with a metal flap. I didn't need anything special to remove mine, I simply grabbed the edges, jiggled it and it came right out. If yours does the same then this is a clear indication the damn thing is not sealed!

3) Use the screw driver and wire brush to clean off the dirt and crap under the lip of the fuel filling thing you just removed. The wire brush removes light stuff while the screw driver is good to get into the little nooks and dig that shit out of there.

4) Once that is clean, try to clean the lip that is still on the car, the black hose leading to your fuel tank. I was abit worried about doing this and dropping shit down into the tank so I just made sure to clean the outer edges.

5) Depending on the gasket stuff you've got, apply a nice amount in the lip on the metal piece you removed, on the inside(you will see what I mean, its like a U on the inside which I filled with gasket stuff). Then if necessary apply some to the black tube under the filler cover.

6) Let it set until its tacky

7) Push it back in. If I recall, the spring valve mechanism sits in with the spring on the top. Just remember the orientation when you removed it.

8) Let it dry a little then screw the cap back in and let it set.

9) All done!

Let it dry and away you go! Pictures can be posted up if needed!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey SargeRX8, can you please post pics? I'm getting similar if not the same problem you had prior. Would be good to have a visual to go with your instructions. Thanks mate.

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

yeah who ever is doing this.... dont use gasket goo.... i used the stuff that said hard setting, but after a week it is still not set. It must need heat or something and you cant just whip out the blow torch on the fuel port. Going to have to clean it all up again and use sikaflex or something.

  • 1 year later...

Just ran into the same problem - awesome tutorial. Can't wait to try it out tomorrow after work!

PS: found this tutorial by 180sxnit on the Silvia forums - it's very similar to this one, only it has some pictures too! ;)

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=295111

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...