Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rifling would be a waste if time and great expense, because you aren't realizing that it's for the projectile, not the gas.

Also, using boost pressure for water methanol is another waste of time. You need the wmi at low levels of boost when the car is under the most load. Without much pressure, you aren't going to atomise the the mix anywhere near enough, so it's not goin to work.

My system worked well at 150 psi, the mix was like steam. Anything under 50psi and it dribbled, like the shit your posting.

Common sense, there is a lack of it these days. People need to realize these ideas would be utilised by BMW, Ferrari, Nissan, etc if they were so great. Why? Because they have millions for R&D, and much smarter people than a few kids on a forum.

I don't see the need to be so harsh... You blindly discourage innovation. It was an idea, even if it doesn't work, it was someone trying to think of a method to improve.

Explain why it wouldn't work, pat him on the back for thinking. Don't shoot him down for both.

I don't see the need to be so harsh... You blindly discourage innovation. It was an idea, even if it doesn't work, it was someone trying to think of a method to improve.

Explain why it wouldn't work, pat him on the back for thinking. Don't shoot him down for both.

Thanks man, like i posted that im no engineer and dont understand gas dynamics. I just had an idea and wanted to learn from the pros.

I saw Mafias post and wondered how he treats people around him in everyday life who ask a question.

Now GTSboy, im impressed with but i wont pretend to understand everything he wrote but i got some of it. Thanks man

Slightly off topic. (sorry) I'm not sure if i'm just a bit slow lol, (actually i probably am), but something i didn't know up until a couple of years ago after seeing some engine dyno results, was that exhaust manifold and port sizes should not be port matched. I've seen alot of people taking to their exhaust ports and cast manifolds with die grinders trying to get a perfect port-gasket-runner diameter match, when infact there should be a 'slight' step in diameter with the exhaust port of the head being smaller than the runner diameter to help stop a bit of exhaust gas reversion back to the cylinder.

Edit. Not sure if this particularly applies to forced induction, as they were only atmo engines i saw results for. I guess with the pressure differential between inlet and exhaust on a turbo it wouldnt make a huge difference.

Edited by _x_FiReStOrM_x_

Heya GTSBoy!

Good to see someone who actually knows what the fark they are talking about.

Just to add, 'rifling' would be best designed for a small range in velocity. Low speed 'rifling' would disturb laminar flow at high velocity and high speed 'rifling' at lower velocities would be much less effective.

GTSBoy, what do you do?

I learnt most of my aero knowledge through a good mate who was an aerodynamicist at Williams F1 for a while.

PM me if you're keen for a chat about nerd stuff!

Mark :)

And? Look inside most OEM plenums and you will find all sorts of interesting lumps and bumps and grooves designed to even the distribution to the cylinders. Ever wonder how the hell a conventional RB20 or 25 inlet manifold manages to get pretty eve distribution to all 6 even though the TB is directly opposite #s 3&4? Same reasons.

There is no way that a spiral groove on the inside of a plenum is going to get the whole mass of gas rotating in the <1 complete turn available from the TB to #6. But it may well be able to influence the shape of the flow to make it spread out a bit better (and not purely because it's spiralled.....that may just have been a crackbrained ida that some Nissan engineer tried and found out that it did what they wanted).

And?

I was just pointing out that Nissan HAS done something like that and they wouldn't have gone to the effort of it without good reason.

I'm just a designer, not an engineer but as a designer I have to take into account HOW things are made and you certainly wouldn't make your casting any more complicated that it needed to be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...