Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm thinking of upgrading the radiator to a Mishimoto (twin core) aluminum radiator (manual).

When I was changing the radiator fans I saw that the current radiator fitted looked aluminium. It had a Calsonic Kansei sticker on it which is a supplier amongst many things (BCMs etc) of aluminium OEM radiators. I believe the V35s/G35s had either standard or aluminium radiators depending on the model. The FSM shows instructions for both.

I wasn't able to confirm whether the unit fitted currently was dual core.. I have a feeling it would have been single core to save on manufacturing costs.

What I wanted to know was for those that had a aluminium radiator fitted already (OEM), whether they found a difference in cooling performance with a Mishimoto or Koyo radiator? Obviously would be a jump up for a standard one to aluminium.

Just trying to suss out whether it would be worthwhile upgrading or hanging in with the current unit. A dual core would be better however not in a real rush to do so.. just more concerned with Summer coming up and the V's poor air flow won't help out as much.

I was going to mock up my own air diversion plates down the track as well.

Cheers guys. :thumbsup:

Edited by ka86

I went from a manual V35 coupe with stock single core black radiator to due core Koyo Racing radiator.

Here is the visual difference

IMG_2615.jpg

IMG_2616.jpg

Does it make a difference? If you are just driving around town,on hwy then no. No difference you can notice, it will sit at the same half way mark on the temp gauge.

The stock one does a fine job at cooling the car under normal conditions, even with hard driving.

Will it make a difference on track or if FI/SC, yes it will as it holds SO much more water and has a lot bigger surface area to cool.

Is it a pain to install, no not really, even the 350Z one will fit but you will not be able to use the power duct thing. But you will need some slim line fans as my stock shroud did not fit. i got 2x 12" slimline ones. Spel brand i think.

Brands? PWR, Koyo then if you cant get those two then get Mishimoto (i read they can be hard to fit and need some mods)..

What is a pain, air in the system, biggest pain in the ass ever. So hard to get out so you really have to drain and fill correctly.

Hey guys,

I'm thinking of upgrading the radiator to a Mishimoto (twin core) aluminum radiator (manual).

When I was changing the radiator fans I saw that the current radiator fitted looked aluminium. It had a Calsonic Kansei sticker on it which is a supplier amongst many things (BCMs etc) of aluminium OEM radiators. I believe the V35s/G35s had either standard or aluminium radiators depending on the model. The FSM shows instructions for both.

I wasn't able to confirm whether the unit fitted currently was dual core.. I have a feeling it would have been single core to save on manufacturing costs.

What I wanted to know was for those that had a aluminium radiator fitted already (OEM), whether they found a difference in cooling performance with a Mishimoto or Koyo radiator? Obviously would be a jump up for a standard one to aluminium.

Just trying to suss out whether it would be worthwhile upgrading or hanging in with the current unit. A dual core would be better however not in a real rush to do so.. just more concerned with Summer coming up and the V's poor air flow won't help out as much.

I was going to mock up my own air diversion plates down the track as well.

Cheers guys. :thumbsup:

Edited by R6n350GT

Thats ok, no thanks required. I wonder why i bother sometimes.

Lol, it's a bit like that sometimes...:rolleyes:

Offtopic, did your mate with the WRX decide to do anything regarding Sway Bars?

Thats ok, no thanks required. I wonder why i bother sometimes.

Wow what a noob (not you.. me).. lol I make a thread, I get a constructive response (or even a response) and don't even respond to it. I logged in the other day and posted in the other thread about aftermarket head units and forgot to respond to my own thread!! Good thing about SAU I've noticed is you usually get a response and especially looking through yours, a detailed response (Some of your threads should be Stickied) so appreciate your pics included answer to mine.. wasn't trying to be a Judas and not respond. :thumbsup:

I went from a manual V35 coupe with stock single core black radiator to due core Koyo Racing radiator. Here is the visual difference IMG_2615.jpgIMG_2616.jpgDoes it make a difference? If you are just driving around town,on hwy then no. No difference you can notice, it will sit at the same half way mark on the temp gauge. The stock one does a fine job at cooling the car under normal conditions, even with hard driving. Will it make a difference on track or if FI/SC, yes it will as it holds SO much more water and has a lot bigger surface area to cool. Is it a pain to install, no not really, even the 350Z one will fit but you will not be able to use the power duct thing. But you will need some slim line fans as my stock shroud did not fit. i got 2x 12" slimline ones. Spel brand i think. Brands? PWR, Koyo then if you cant get those two then get Mishimoto (i read they can be hard to fit and need some mods).. What is a pain, air in the system, biggest pain in the ass ever. So hard to get out so you really have to drain and fill correctly.

Great info ^^ I agree about the air in the system, when I changed my fans/thermostat recently and emptied the coolant, had real fun getting the air out.. took a bit and some short drives and constant refilling of the overflow bottle to get it right. I put in straight water to run for a short time (to weaken any older coolant) before doing another flush and running some Glyco based coolant (Nissan OEM FTW.. $50). I will probably leave the standard radiator for now and may change it down the track, my real concern was just the poor airflow. Cheers for the heads up about the slimline fans, noticed on some Mishimoto selling sites saying they recommend it.. didn't realise how much more thicker the new one was to the OEM. I was hoping to run the standard fans (seeing as I just bought them recently!!) but if not than will get some slimlines. Once again cheers for the response :thanks:

Edited by ka86

Lol, it's a bit like that sometimes...:rolleyes:

Offtopic, did your mate with the WRX decide to do anything regarding Sway Bars?

He said prices were good and he was happy with them, im surprised he didnt order? Give him a call or message and tell him i told him to get his ass moving and get some real handling !!

Wow what a noob (not you.. me).. lol I make a thread, I get a constructive response (or even a response) and don't even respond to it. I logged in the other day and posted in the other thread about aftermarket head units and forgot to respond to my own thread!! Good thing about SAU I've noticed is you usually get a response and especially looking through yours, a detailed response (Some of your threads should be Stickied) so appreciate your pics included answer to mine.. wasn't trying to be a Judas and not respond. :thumbsup:

Great info ^^ I agree about the air in the system, when I changed my fans/thermostat recently and emptied the coolant, had real fun getting the air out.. took a bit and some short drives and constant refilling of the overflow bottle to get it right. I put in straight water to run for a short time (to weaken any older coolant) before doing another flush and running some Glyco based coolant (Nissan OEM FTW.. $50). I will probably leave the standard radiator for now and may change it down the track, my real concern was just the poor airflow. Cheers for the heads up about the slimline fans, noticed on some Mishimoto selling sites saying they recommend it.. didn't realise how much more thicker the new one was to the OEM. I was hoping to run the standard fans (seeing as I just bought them recently!!) but if not than will get some slimlines. Once again cheers for the response :thanks:

Thats fine :) , i try and help out as often as i can!

Yeah over heating can be a pain when u dont get all the air out, so get it done right the first time. Here is what you have to do for a correct V35/350GT/G35 coolant flush with no air bubbles (my post on g35driver)Well i got it, ended up doing this, which should be done from step 1:

1. Wait till car is cooled down

2. Jack up front or park on step incline

3. remove rear bleed valve from heater hose

4. remove rad drain plug with bucket under it

5. remove rad cap

6. remove and wash out overflow

ONCE DRAINED

1. Put rad drain plug back in

2. put bleed plug back in

3. put over flow container back in

4. get a long funnel or water bottle or non spill funnel and put tape about 1" from the tip of funnel or on the thread of the bottle until its thick enough to fit snug in the rad neck

5. with car off fill the overflow to minimum.

6. with car off slowly poor mixture into funnel wedged in rad with your premixed mixture (i used distilled and water wetter)

7. Once you see it no longer draining from the funnel grab the lower rad hose and compress and let go a few times and see if anymore drains out, top it up if it all goes

8. Start the car and slowly keep at least a bit of fluid so that the funnel is at no point completely empty

9. As you see it no longer draining and staying where it is rev car to 1500-2000 for 30sec and then let idle. Repeat a few times

10. As soon as you see fluid rise up the funnel and overflow container full turn car OFF

11. Let rest of the fluid drain, if none is left very slowly poor more in until you cant fit any more in.

12: You should put rad cap back on, start car again and turn fans on with A/C off and temp as high as it can go and fans on high

13. Make sure you can feel hot air, that means coolant is circulating and passing hot air out, cold air = air bubble = slightly opening the bleed valve and letting air out until just water comes out.

14. one you confirm hot air and/or no air from bleed valve turn car OFF

15. If jacked up put it down and go for a drive, if all good then put under tray back on!

16. Keep and eye on overflow tank for next week and make sure its at minimum

Good detailed info once again which I will probably use shortly lol. :cheers:

I was considering the Mishimoto purely because the filler cap is in the OEM location however the Koyo is on the left hence cannot use the Power Duct.

If I do install the Mishimoto, will try to post pics.

I haven't heard that much about problems about fitment however haven't fully researched into that yet.

Did you have any dramas at all (except for the Power Duct issue)?

Good detailed info once again which I will probably use shortly lol. :cheers:

I was considering the Mishimoto purely because the filler cap is in the OEM location however the Koyo is on the left hence cannot use the Power Duct.

If I do install the Mishimoto, will try to post pics.

I haven't heard that much about problems about fitment however haven't fully researched into that yet.

Did you have any dramas at all (except for the Power Duct issue)?

Koyo make a G35 and a 350Z radiator.

I have the 350z one, brought it from a g35 user and didnt think to ask which it was. So if you get a G35 one it will have the filer cap at the right end!

No other issues

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...