Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my GTR very happy with it, however now i have 2 problem,

1. Does anyone know what the HICAS light for? This is because i was driving my GTR on the freeway and suddenly the HICAS light just came out but i dont fell much different. The light just stay there all the way until i restart my car again. It came out a few time but i can find much information about it.

2. Does anyone have any user manual or installation manaul for GRID tourge control. I have one of those unit but i still cant figure out how it actual work. This is because when i turn on the GRID and let say i put 20% force to my front.

Inteory the 4WD light on the dash suppose to come up but for me it does not. I need to turn off and on the control unit a few time then only the light comes out. Does anyone have this same problem,i guess the previous owner have install it worngly but i am still not sure.

Second onece i play with the GRID unit. I can fell that my brake is automatic engage by itself if i turn my stering or wheel to end of one way,let say i turn all the way to right. The brake will engage by itself and the wheel seen to be lock about 10% of presure as i can fell it.

Can anyone out there help me pls......i been looking around for information but i cant find much.

Thanks

Calvin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37435-gtr-problem-pls-help-mepls/
Share on other sites

Hey calvintys...i had a hicas problem once...same car as you, but when the hicas lighted up the car would then swerve left or right...not sure what was going on there but brought it to my mechanic n they fixed it...cost quite a bit though...said was some control arm thing.

have a look on the net...there are plenty of places which teach you to put the car into diagnostics which will then flash hicas error codes if you have any errors with the system.

hmm...not sure on that GRID thing. i understand that the 4wd light will only come on if there is a problem with it, but i think if your torque split controller is installed properly then the system shouldn't think there's an error, hence no light??

also, the attessa system is linked with the abs system which could indicate your torque controller is not set up properly, thus causing the brakes to bite??

Hicas, dunno, get a mechanic who knows what there doing and has the fault codes to check it for you.

Grid controller is working fine, if the light comes ON then there is a problem, not when it's off.

If you have it activated and turn a corner slowly, it is binding up the clutch packs in the centre diff ( ATTESSA) cos the pressure is still being applied to them by the controller.

What is then happening is it is trying to turn the front and rear diffs at the same rate when in actual fact there is supposed to be a difference.

If you know someone with a proper 4wd( ie. patrol, landcruiser ) get them to put it in 4wd and then turn slowly around a corner. You will hear the wheels skipping as the tyres should be rolling at a different rate due to the different arcs they are travelling but the locking of the diff won't allow it.

That is what you are doing to your GTR by doing that with the controller. There should be an auto setting which disengages it automatically ( which is why it's called auto) once you get below 15-20KMH.

Cheers

Ken

rb26dett And Gtrken >>> Thanks alot for the information, now i am far better before, fell that my knowledge have increase. Once again thanks for the help as i appreciate both information alot. :(

As for the split controller i am using GRID T.S DANSER.. if anyone have any information on it will be appreciate.

uuuhhmm, if the steering wheel has been removed, replaced or even tampered with and is slightly off centre, doesn't that also cause the hicas to light up??

Yeah, that's what I was going to suggest...

I replaced the steering wheel on one of my old skylines and the hicas light would come on randomly above 80km/h and stay on until I turned the car off.

I also used the wrong boss kit and the sensor didn't line up correctly, so that might have been the problem too...

Just to also agree with Mesh and Merl - if your car has an aftermarket wheel and a non-HICAS boss kit fitted (or as Mesh said, had this combo sometime prior) - then after about 15 minutes of straight driving - ie: no steering input - the HICAS system thinks something is wrong and turns on the warning light. It thinks the car has gone to sleep.

Scared the bejeezus out of me the first time (was between Tarcutta and Gundagai - ain't no performance workshops out there) but is nothing to worry about :(

J

Thanks guy for the information but the sad case is i dont have an after market wheel, as i am using stock standard nissan wheel with air bag. Hope that next week when i take my car to check the problem is not serious. Thanks everyone whom here to help.... this will keep my skyline spirit increase.... Skyline forever or RB26DET

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest INASNT
What if the HICAS light is always on?

As in my case.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...3241#post783241

If it always stays on and there isent a problem, then the cheapest way to fix it is to just take the bulb out from behind it and u wont see it light up anymore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
×
×
  • Create New...