Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys hoping some light could be shined here,

ive just picked up a hks 2835 and a trust oil cooler for my gtt,

ive tried searching on here but couldn't really find the details needed,

im wanting to buy earls fittings and make my own lines but not sure about the sizes i need,

with the oil cooler its AN10 so ill be sweet getting the fittings and an10 hose, does anyone know of a good place to buy it.

now with the turbo i have no idea about what size fittings or lines ill need, i know ill need 90's into the turbo but thats about it.

what fitting are need on the other end etc.

if anyone could help here i would much appreciate it, its killing me seeing it sit in a box on my floor lol

on another note does anyone know of a good place to get some alluminium plate or sheet, i need to fab a couple of brackets for the cooler aswell

thanks

you will probably find it cheaper and easier to just get a decent professional to make em up... my braided lines and speedflow fittings only cost $230 for my 2835...

I'd also be interested to know about the oil cooler earl's fittings too... I thought the oil cooler I have (HKS typeS) had larger than -10 fittings though...

Im needing screw in fittings for my greddy oil relocation plate to fit the HKS oil cooler lines???

the turbo didnt actually come with any papers or instructions and its the kai, couldnt find a pro s anywhere.

the cooler and sandwich plate ive got aree 100% -10 well thats wat i ordered anyway.

i managed to find a shop near my place so i might just take it all down there and see what they can do, im worried about them not knowing which fittings are needed for the turbo lines on the motor end

also do i need a new oil drain pipe or will the original one bolt up?

My kit came with a new drain pipe. It's slightly shorter from memory and connects to the standard rubber hose so you

May have an issue there as the hose has a bend.

Pretty sure the HKS one was shorter at least, don't remember. Just saying there might be an alignment issue

75 coupe, some really old HKS coolers had -12 lines but it's pretty uncommon. either way it's a piece of piss to fit. you just need to get the -12 hose ends (if it really is -12) and make sure they come with the right thread to fit into the -10 greddy filter mount. or if you have the hose ends already with the HKS stuff just find a -10/-10 adapter. but there will be fittings that screw into the greddy plate allowing you to fit -12 lines to it for sure. but check it actually is -12 first as it's pretty unlikely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...