Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cut a long story short, basically my car has a 2.5" exhaust. I plan to get a full 3" set up (I'll grab a dump pipe and hi flow cat from BATMBL) so I'm after a cat back system.

I got quoted $650 for an XForce cat back with a 6" cannon with 4" tip (which is what I want). This sounds kinda cheap. I got quote a similar system from Hitech mufflers for around $1100...

Can you guys make any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37456-i-need-a-new-exhaust/
Share on other sites

I'm in a similar situation, but I was thinking of going for a Trust Power Extreme II.

Suggestions?

I've got the 180SX version of the PEII with a high-flow cat and bigger front pipe. It gave a good torquey increase in mid to high-range revs (doesn't feel choked at high revs anymore) and it's nice and quiet around town.

Still plenty loud when you open it up though. ;)

Bakadesu - I have a 180 with stock exhaust+pod at the moment, and oh yeah! I so know that feeling of 2500-3500rpm surge in power but after that its just flat ;) I'm looking around for a 3" turbo back with high flow cat, cannon muffler. I'm thinking of getting the PEII from Japan, but the shipping is 50% of the actual price almost. :(

full 3" exhaust system in melb for about $950

from turbo back, mandrel bent, mild steel. no brand. ive been recommened to get no brand ones as they are generally better quality than the hks / trust ones for $1400 - better grade steel. so i was told anyway

full 3" exhaust system in melb for about $950

from turbo back, mandrel bent, mild steel. no brand. ive been recommened to get no brand ones as they are generally better quality than the hks / trust ones for $1400 - better grade steel. so i was told anyway

they r not necessarily better however they r just as good in my opinion.

most hks or trust kits sold are usually just a cat-back system

but comparing 950 to 1400 id go for the no brand for sure

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...