Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i need a hand with the settings on my boost controller and possibly where i've placed my vacuum lines and such.

i have a turbo back 3/3.5" exhaust with a high flow cat, front mount intercooler and a pod incase you need to know.

sounds pretty dumb but i don't know how to set the boost,

i thought one setting was 7 psi and the other at 10 but my boost gauge went up near 15 psi and i'm aware you shouldn't go over 13 psi on a stock turbo

the boost controllers pressure signal is tee'd in at the fuel pressure regulator and the gauge at the back of the plenum at the stock boost controller/gauge i'm not sure how accurate that is.

have the boost controller solenoid hooked up to the wastegate properly, i presumed the line coming from the intake pipe infront of the turbo was good enough for my pressure line then it said the 3rd port you vant to atmosphere but i have it venting into the intake pipe going to my intercooler

i have searched and read through the manual and searched some more

sounds like you have the solenoid lines wrong. run a line from the nipple on the cooler piping (after turbo) to the com port of the solenoid. then run a line from NO to the wastegate actuator and leave the 3rd port open to atmosphere (you could plumb it in before the turbo but its not needed, just make sure its not blocked and doesnt see boost).

ohh ok, yeah that makes sense. Thanks mate =)

i'm also thinking of moving the boost gauges Tee peice into the vacum line for the blow off valve

No you dont want to do that. T it in to the line that provides your fuel pressure reg with a vacuum signal.

If your lines are setup as per the diagram it should work fine.

Start off setting up the eboost with a reset. Then go for a drive and make sure its not overboosting. With everything reset to defaults it should run the lowest possible boost. Then, and only then should you start playing with the settings.

No you dont want to do that. T it in to the line that provides your fuel pressure reg with a vacuum signal.

If your lines are setup as per the diagram it should work fine.

Start off setting up the eboost with a reset. Then go for a drive and make sure its not overboosting. With everything reset to defaults it should run the lowest possible boost. Then, and only then should you start playing with the settings.

wait, is your engine a 3.15L?

so a bored out rb26/30?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...