Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help: Turbosmart E-Boost Street Ebc

erik

By erik,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

erik Community Regular

erik

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i need a hand with the settings on my boost controller and possibly where i've placed my vacuum lines and such.

i have a turbo back 3/3.5" exhaust with a high flow cat, front mount intercooler and a pod incase you need to know.

sounds pretty dumb but i don't know how to set the boost,

i thought one setting was 7 psi and the other at 10 but my boost gauge went up near 15 psi and i'm aware you shouldn't go over 13 psi on a stock turbo

the boost controllers pressure signal is tee'd in at the fuel pressure regulator and the gauge at the back of the plenum at the stock boost controller/gauge i'm not sure how accurate that is.

have the boost controller solenoid hooked up to the wastegate properly, i presumed the line coming from the intake pipe infront of the turbo was good enough for my pressure line then it said the 3rd port you vant to atmosphere but i have it venting into the intake pipe going to my intercooler

i have searched and read through the manual and searched some more

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

sounds like you have the solenoid lines wrong. run a line from the nipple on the cooler piping (after turbo) to the com port of the solenoid. then run a line from NO to the wastegate actuator and leave the 3rd port open to atmosphere (you could plumb it in before the turbo but its not needed, just make sure its not blocked and doesnt see boost).

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

ohh ok, yeah that makes sense. Thanks mate =)

i'm also thinking of moving the boost gauges Tee peice into the vacum line for the blow off valve

No you dont want to do that. T it in to the line that provides your fuel pressure reg with a vacuum signal.

If your lines are setup as per the diagram it should work fine.

Start off setting up the eboost with a reset. Then go for a drive and make sure its not overboosting. With everything reset to defaults it should run the lowest possible boost. Then, and only then should you start playing with the settings.

erik Community Regular

erik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No you dont want to do that. T it in to the line that provides your fuel pressure reg with a vacuum signal.

If your lines are setup as per the diagram it should work fine.

Start off setting up the eboost with a reset. Then go for a drive and make sure its not overboosting. With everything reset to defaults it should run the lowest possible boost. Then, and only then should you start playing with the settings.

wait, is your engine a 3.15L?

so a bored out rb26/30?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...