Jump to content
SAU Community

What Clutch To Buy

Slow4door
 Share

Recommended Posts

Slow4door Collaborator

Slow4door

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thinking Jim berry cos of the wrap, don't want to spend big$$$ on twin or tripple plate! I have a cussion button in there that's only done well what I've been told 40xxxkms and as my car comes on boost it slips, tried everything and can't get any more grip

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Just buy this, it will not slip, comes with a new flywheel (opposed to the old one with a JB clutch) and you will not find someone saying anything but praise for them.

If budget is a drama just save up for longer. They're worth every cent.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376906-fs-vic-nismo-gmax-twin-plate/

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Yeah jim berry all the way! Jim is a good fella very helpful always has time to give advice cant beat a hand made custom jb clutch ive got 1 in my 33 its only a modified standard clutch but it made 3100lb of clamp feels just like the standard clutch with a lil more bite and should b good for 300rwkw

  • 1 year later...
Samgrainger32 Rising Star

Samgrainger32

Posted
Posted

need advice im looking at a excedy hd button clutch im wanting to know if that would suit my laurel with a rb25 and a power range 350hp to 420hp and what should i do with the flywheel what sort should i get???

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

need advice im looking at a excedy hd button clutch im wanting to know if that would suit my laurel with a rb25 and a power range 350hp to 420hp and what should i do with the flywheel what sort should i get???

Don't get the exedy heavy duty pink homo shit.. they just use an OEM specification pressure plate and mod it to increase the clamp and done in Australia. If you want to get Exedy still, move into the Sports range, it's a silver pressure plate made in Japan and has a clamp rate of 1.1 tonnes out of the box (if using a GT-R pressure plate).

I would get the Sports Ceramic but from a R32 GT-r Pre 1993 (push type) It uses a 4-puk ceramic plate with a 1.1 tonne pressure plate.

If you want to stray away from Exedy, get NPC... amazing clutch with a soft pedal.. I believe they use a 300ZX pressure plate (10") hence the pedal effort decreases. I'm using one now, I can't be happier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...