Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so im looking at doing a bit of work on my skyline. (r33 gts-t series 2) Looking for about 220-230 kw atw. According to my dyno sheet that i got with the car i have exactly 200kw atw. (anybody know is this is decent for a pretty much stock skyline or not?)

I want to put as little work and money into it as possible while still getting reasonable performance. My questions are as follows..

1. Should I get my turbo high flowed or buy a new one? I want it to pretty much bolt onto the stock manifold. ( If so, where do i get new turbo or get my one high flowed and plus how much $$ looking at?)

2. also i will need to change my ecu? or just get mine remapped? once again, where can i get this done, what do i use, and how much am i looking at? btw i am in perth.

3. if i change or highflow turbo, is there anything else i will need to modify for it to run properly?

my mods are as follows..

-full high flow 3" stainless steal exhaust .

-Front mount intercooler

- pod filter

-lowered suspension

- super heavy duty single plate clutch

and thats pretty much it besides boost gauge etc...

any and all help is appreciated!

Edited by fabb
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374870-looking-for-new-turbo-questions/
Share on other sites

the problem is going from 200rwkw to 230rwkw or even 250rwkw is a $5k exercise

are you sure you aren't happy with 200rwkw?

a 200rwkw gtst if setup properly is pretty quick and should beat most cars on the street

you cant really get a turbo for 230rwkw, its usually 250rwkw

a highflow or HKS GT-RS will get you there

but then to support it you need

injectors

air flow meter

fuel pump

stand alone ecu or decent remap

so its hard to get any more rwkw without a decent outlay - ie $5k inc the turbo purchase itself

if you really really want that power go for it, but its not cheap

highflow or GT-RS is about the same result

highflow is guaranteed to mate up

GT-RS you can sell your old stocker for $100

but then you may have to play around with exhaust to make it fit

but then you call your friends you have a HKS turbo

both are "new" and no difference as far as reliablity etc

oh so 200 kw atw is pretty decent? sorry im sorta noob.. my previous r33 "felt" quicker , no idea why but defenitly wasnt 200rwkw. What is "Stock" rwkw for r33 gts-t? yeh im happy with my cars performance but would be even happier if i could get a bit more out of it. And i defenitly dnt have 5k to spare. anyway of pushing another 10rwkw? without stepping into the thousdands of dollars mark? Also u say "if u set up properly" any ideas also on how to get the most out of my currents set up?

Edited by fabb

peak rwkw doesnt make a car quick, average power does

what does your dyno chart look like and how is it tuned?

you can 200rwkw and then you can have "200rwkw"

its all in the tune

stock ECR33 is 140rwkw

the only way to push 10rwkw is to make the turbocharger work harder, or lean out the mixtures, or change your wheel size

most are not a good idea, a stock turbo at 200rwkw is pretty much on the failure level already - ie around 12psi ish

okay i just spoke to old owners, and APARENTLY they gave me the wrong dyno sheet when they sold me the car. they had 7 skylines) and ive only had my car for about 2 months. I knew it didnt feel 200rwkw... new dyno sheet says 201.5rwhp**** my bad BIG rookie mistake. but i knew there was no way it was hitting 200rwkw especially with those little mods. so now my quesiton is.. anyway to push that without having to spend thousands of dollars?

(sorry for wasting ur time on previous questions :// )

okay i just spoke to old owners, and APARENTLY they gave me the wrong dyno sheet when they sold me the car. they had 7 skylines) and ive only had my car for about 2 months. I knew it didnt feel 200rwkw... new dyno sheet says 201.5rwhp**** my bad BIG rookie mistake. but i knew there was no way it was hitting 200rwkw especially with those little mods. so now my quesiton is.. anyway to push that without having to spend thousands of dollars?

(sorry for wasting ur time on previous questions :// )

You 'should' get a power fc. I got mine with a hand controller for $1000

Then a z32 afm. I got mine second hand for $100

Then some big injectors. I got mine for $500 refurbished.

All that with a bleed valve will get you another 50 rwhp or so but it will stress your turbo a lot more.

Mine made 189 rwkw or 253 rwhp on 12 psi on the stock turbo.

Unfortunately there is no cheap way out of it like paulr33 already said.

if you'd like to maybe purchase my hiflow i might be able to work a deal out with you, mines already made 215kw and would probably make upto 230 and bit more, im looking at upgrading to a gt30,

for ECU recommendations Im actually leaning towards a vipec or an ecu that can take ethanol sensor feedback for fuel map trimming so you can have the 'ANY FUEL' choice in the future...

I have a PowerFC and its fine, but I wish I could use the ethanol sensor and just use whatever fuel is available... that is E85 or 98...

keep doing some reading OP, sounds like you have lots to learn about upgrades and costs....

for ECU recommendations Im actually leaning towards a vipec or an ecu that can take ethanol sensor feedback for fuel map trimming so you can have the 'ANY FUEL' choice in the future...

I have a PowerFC and its fine, but I wish I could use the ethanol sensor and just use whatever fuel is available... that is E85 or 98...

keep doing some reading OP, sounds like you have lots to learn about upgrades and costs....

hey bit off topic sorry, but where do you get those graphics on your car? and is it expensive? looks good

if you'd like to maybe purchase my hiflow i might be able to work a deal out with you, mines already made 215kw and would probably make upto 230 and bit more, im looking at upgrading to a gt30,

yeh that dsnt sound too bad of an idea but if I do purchase say ur high flow turbo what else will I need to support it besides aftermarket ECU? and how much will labour set me back?

for ECU recommendations Im actually leaning towards a vipec or an ecu that can take ethanol sensor feedback for fuel map trimming so you can have the 'ANY FUEL' choice in the future...

I have a PowerFC and its fine, but I wish I could use the ethanol sensor and just use whatever fuel is available... that is E85 or 98...

keep doing some reading OP, sounds like you have lots to learn about upgrades and costs....

We dont have ethanol at the pump in Perth. Still a valid point tho.

hey bit off topic sorry, but where do you get those graphics on your car? and is it expensive? looks good

I would take a stab at him getting the graphics from the place that his signature is advertising?

To properly support the high flow from stock you would need computer, injectors, z32 afm, fuel pump, front mount (and oil and water lines?) and it wouldn't hurt to have a decent dump pipe. You already have a couple of these things I see. You cant run bigger injectors or the z32 afm without the computer but you can install the computer and make around 200 rwkw without swapping the injectors or the afm. They will be maxed out tho and for the injectors its not a good thing. My injectors hit 100 percent at 190rwkw or thereabouts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...