Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys so i been thinking about this 4 a while ..

first i wanted a sub box on the side pannel like you get the fiberglass ones, but wanted it to be wooden didnt like the idea of a flimzy box ...so here are my pics

aretofill.jpg?t=1314015118

the hole to fill ,

started with some dynamat ( didnt car about extra weight) just hate rattles and tiny sound

testfit.jpg?t=1314015119

the disign lay out to get a pattern of how far i wanted it to sit back in there ..

designidea.jpg?t=1314015118after playing around cutting and shutting little bits i took it out to get the outside measurements and transferd it to my mdf sheet and cut it out and tacked it together to see if it fitted back up again DSC_0698.jpg?t=1314015118DSC_0700.jpg?t=1314015118

note the tapper in on the left to fit past the brackets

DSC_0699.jpg?t=1314015118

DSC_0704.jpg?t=1314015119 the reason for the angel :teehee:

DSC_0701.jpg?t=1314015118

fitted up nicely i think had to add it strips under the base to keep it square and sitting flat i tidyd the strips up and screwed em down

( i have finished this box and coved it ill add pics 2mora) its air tight screwd and liquid nailed shut

the amp's will be on a flip down back peace under the rear window so wen its pinned up you will not see the amps or wireing unless its unpined and droped down to keep the boot simple and tidy i havent started that yet but ill update wen its done

also if you dont like well meh :sleep:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374900-r34-sub-box/
Share on other sites

FYI .you could have done it and had it behind the panel, there is plenty of airspace and you wouldnt loose any boot. 12" subs fit no cutting of steel

bet that dash is a bugger on sunny days reflecting off the windscreen

but overall a better attempt then some of others in the audio section. IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374900-r34-sub-box/#findComment-5980996
Share on other sites

its not a gloss paint so it doesnt reflect at all as for box i wanted a sealed wooden box if not i would have just made a pannel like you said and flush mounted it in im not fussed on boot space as its a weekend driver just wanted to get the spare out with out the sub getting in the way

FYI .you could have done it and had it behind the panel, there is plenty of airspace and you wouldnt loose any boot. 12" subs fit no cutting of steel

bet that dash is a bugger on sunny days reflecting off the windscreen

but overall a better attempt then some of others in the audio section. IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374900-r34-sub-box/#findComment-5981069
Share on other sites

yer the old guy who had it befor me didnt really look after it lol was his work car befor i saved it :closedeyes: i was thinking of wrapping the platic around the arm rest to the gear shift in carbonfiber not sure could look crap with the paint

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374900-r34-sub-box/#findComment-5982132
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...