Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So after my car was lowered (Still over 10cm off the ground) I had trouble getting my jack under the car in the front to jack it up.

I had a look and there was only 2 options, one was to get the low profile ramps but that was going to cost around $100 the other was to get someone to cut me some planks of wood into ramps.

I did not want Planks of wood in the boot of my car so I ened up with these:

http://www.ebay.com....=item2eb6a58754

Anyways I guess this may not be the solution for everyone but for the few people that may also be looking into a solution I thought I would share.

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374924-my-solution-for-my-car-being-to-low/
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

How low is your car? They've fit under all mine. Where are you jacking from?

Must be doing something wrong man!

Doesn't fit under the side of my car lol. I can't fit my iPhone4 between my front bumper and the ground :P

Fits under the diff at the back but no room to jack it up, have to drive up onto chocks.

Really? Is that your truck-spec 34 in your sig? I joke I joke :P

Doesn't look as good but it was stupid before. Lowered it for a car show and couldn't be bothered raising it up again after. It used to scrape if I went around a corner too fast confused.gif

Oh trust me, I cop it from all sides for that.

Obviously I was being sarcastic though, I'm pretty damn impressed with that clearance.

What suspension have you got under that thing?

Haha yeh all good mate, was just joking :P

I've got the BC Racing BR series coilovers on it. The front ones were maxed out before, the rear could still go another 60-70mm lower blink.gif Am much happier with the current clearance though, can actually drive it properly.

BC's, good for low thumbsup.gif

Did the install on mine at home, front's first got them pretty low, then the rears, was a little drunk by then and they got wound ALL the way down, just to see what they looked like. Looked boss but clunked and scraped on every little bump or loose piece of gravel on the road so they did eventually come up some.

But damn it did look good.

The 33's must be a lot different to the 34's then, there is no way in hell that the rears could go all the way down on my car without a lot of modification. Now that I think about it, the rears must have a lot more than 60-70mm still to go because the upper control arm assembly was coming into contact with the inner guard and wheel with at least 70mm of thread to go.

The 33's must be a lot different to the 34's then, there is no way in hell that the rears could go all the way down on my car without a lot of modification. Now that I think about it, the rears must have a lot more than 60-70mm still to go because the upper control arm assembly was coming into contact with the inner guard and wheel with at least 70mm of thread to go.

It was on 19's at the time, I'm not sure it would go all the way down on 17's and you can't wind them collar to collar, they stop winding before the thread does, I think to get them lower than that you need to shorten stroke length from the top.

Edited by arcticlink

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...