Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all am about to own my first skyline, a 32 Gtst.

Have just come from a 12 sec 200+kw atw manual legnum and hope I can replicate those kind of figures with the 32 fairly comfortably to :)

Looking forward meeting folk on here and doing it all over again with s skyline!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375264-new-kid-from-sydney/
Share on other sites

Haha I'm a mechanic so plugs aren't too bad on the legnum...just like a magna really...,I'm more excited about having a nice simple rwd setup!

You think a 25 is the go hey? Not disagreeing but I might stay true to the ol' 20 and build it up...then again might go '25. I'm not looking for monster power low 200's atw is plenty for me :) if money permits though might go 25 :

Thanks for the welcome!

Edited by the_wolf

I would stay with the rb20. They are a tough lil engine and if worked on properly you will easily be able to produce that power figure. My r32 gtst i just sold had a high flowed rb25 turbo, exhaust, front mount cooler, fuel pump, injectors and a tune and made low 200's easily. Was a fun little car. Best of Luck and welcome!!!

+1 for the rb25 conversion. sure you can get power out of the rb20 but at the expense of low end power. you can get the rb25 to be knocking on the door of 200kw with stock everything but exhaust and cooler (with the boost bumped up a bit) and it will be making full boost by around 2700rpm. even with a turbo, ecu and injector upgrade you can make around 250kw and still have full boost by under 3000rpm. to get even 200kw from the rb20 you won't be making full boost until closer to 4000rpm.

^this is true but the 20 is a solid unit and is more than happy to rev its head off all day. I had a 20 with a to4e + supporting hardware with 210rwkw, was a ball in a nice light chassis. The 25 does have more scope though, by the time youve done up a 25 you could have a 26 with light mods.

Yep can totally understand the benefits of a 25 in terms of low end torque....it simply comes with the capacity. At the moment though as I e cone from an awd turbo background im going to be getting the suspension and brakes exactly how I want them and learn how the car behaves before chasing more power.

^this is true but the 20 is a solid unit and is more than happy to rev its head off all day. I had a 20 with a to4e + supporting hardware with 210rwkw, was a ball in a nice light chassis. The 25 does have more scope though, by the time youve done up a 25 you could have a 26 with light mods.

you can get that sort of power out of the stock turbo on a 25 with just an ecu (and a shortened turbo life). if you are willing to run the gauntlet you can get up to around 220kw on the stock turbo at about 16 or 17psi through the stock turbo.

Yeh I'm happy with 240-250, that's plenty for me...but I want it to be useable power, I don't know whether the 20 will have as much of a street friendly useable 250kw as a 25 would

No way in hell!

Get ready for the torqueless goatf**ker compared :P

Lmao yep I sort of figured....oh well might drop in a 25 down the track when funds allow...

To save all the to and fro with questions I have about how easy it is to swap to a 25...could someone post a link to some info? Thanks

search function is sometimes a bleeep

i usually type the question (if its pretty normal) into google and it comes up with the relevant thread on sau

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119865-rb25-into-r32-basic-guide/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...