Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all am about to own my first skyline, a 32 Gtst.

Have just come from a 12 sec 200+kw atw manual legnum and hope I can replicate those kind of figures with the 32 fairly comfortably to :)

Looking forward meeting folk on here and doing it all over again with s skyline!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375264-new-kid-from-sydney/
Share on other sites

Haha I'm a mechanic so plugs aren't too bad on the legnum...just like a magna really...,I'm more excited about having a nice simple rwd setup!

You think a 25 is the go hey? Not disagreeing but I might stay true to the ol' 20 and build it up...then again might go '25. I'm not looking for monster power low 200's atw is plenty for me :) if money permits though might go 25 :

Thanks for the welcome!

Edited by the_wolf

I would stay with the rb20. They are a tough lil engine and if worked on properly you will easily be able to produce that power figure. My r32 gtst i just sold had a high flowed rb25 turbo, exhaust, front mount cooler, fuel pump, injectors and a tune and made low 200's easily. Was a fun little car. Best of Luck and welcome!!!

+1 for the rb25 conversion. sure you can get power out of the rb20 but at the expense of low end power. you can get the rb25 to be knocking on the door of 200kw with stock everything but exhaust and cooler (with the boost bumped up a bit) and it will be making full boost by around 2700rpm. even with a turbo, ecu and injector upgrade you can make around 250kw and still have full boost by under 3000rpm. to get even 200kw from the rb20 you won't be making full boost until closer to 4000rpm.

^this is true but the 20 is a solid unit and is more than happy to rev its head off all day. I had a 20 with a to4e + supporting hardware with 210rwkw, was a ball in a nice light chassis. The 25 does have more scope though, by the time youve done up a 25 you could have a 26 with light mods.

Yep can totally understand the benefits of a 25 in terms of low end torque....it simply comes with the capacity. At the moment though as I e cone from an awd turbo background im going to be getting the suspension and brakes exactly how I want them and learn how the car behaves before chasing more power.

^this is true but the 20 is a solid unit and is more than happy to rev its head off all day. I had a 20 with a to4e + supporting hardware with 210rwkw, was a ball in a nice light chassis. The 25 does have more scope though, by the time youve done up a 25 you could have a 26 with light mods.

you can get that sort of power out of the stock turbo on a 25 with just an ecu (and a shortened turbo life). if you are willing to run the gauntlet you can get up to around 220kw on the stock turbo at about 16 or 17psi through the stock turbo.

Yeh I'm happy with 240-250, that's plenty for me...but I want it to be useable power, I don't know whether the 20 will have as much of a street friendly useable 250kw as a 25 would

No way in hell!

Get ready for the torqueless goatf**ker compared :P

Lmao yep I sort of figured....oh well might drop in a 25 down the track when funds allow...

To save all the to and fro with questions I have about how easy it is to swap to a 25...could someone post a link to some info? Thanks

search function is sometimes a bleeep

i usually type the question (if its pretty normal) into google and it comes up with the relevant thread on sau

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119865-rb25-into-r32-basic-guide/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...