Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all am about to own my first skyline, a 32 Gtst.

Have just come from a 12 sec 200+kw atw manual legnum and hope I can replicate those kind of figures with the 32 fairly comfortably to :)

Looking forward meeting folk on here and doing it all over again with s skyline!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375264-new-kid-from-sydney/
Share on other sites

Haha I'm a mechanic so plugs aren't too bad on the legnum...just like a magna really...,I'm more excited about having a nice simple rwd setup!

You think a 25 is the go hey? Not disagreeing but I might stay true to the ol' 20 and build it up...then again might go '25. I'm not looking for monster power low 200's atw is plenty for me :) if money permits though might go 25 :

Thanks for the welcome!

Edited by the_wolf

I would stay with the rb20. They are a tough lil engine and if worked on properly you will easily be able to produce that power figure. My r32 gtst i just sold had a high flowed rb25 turbo, exhaust, front mount cooler, fuel pump, injectors and a tune and made low 200's easily. Was a fun little car. Best of Luck and welcome!!!

+1 for the rb25 conversion. sure you can get power out of the rb20 but at the expense of low end power. you can get the rb25 to be knocking on the door of 200kw with stock everything but exhaust and cooler (with the boost bumped up a bit) and it will be making full boost by around 2700rpm. even with a turbo, ecu and injector upgrade you can make around 250kw and still have full boost by under 3000rpm. to get even 200kw from the rb20 you won't be making full boost until closer to 4000rpm.

^this is true but the 20 is a solid unit and is more than happy to rev its head off all day. I had a 20 with a to4e + supporting hardware with 210rwkw, was a ball in a nice light chassis. The 25 does have more scope though, by the time youve done up a 25 you could have a 26 with light mods.

Yep can totally understand the benefits of a 25 in terms of low end torque....it simply comes with the capacity. At the moment though as I e cone from an awd turbo background im going to be getting the suspension and brakes exactly how I want them and learn how the car behaves before chasing more power.

^this is true but the 20 is a solid unit and is more than happy to rev its head off all day. I had a 20 with a to4e + supporting hardware with 210rwkw, was a ball in a nice light chassis. The 25 does have more scope though, by the time youve done up a 25 you could have a 26 with light mods.

you can get that sort of power out of the stock turbo on a 25 with just an ecu (and a shortened turbo life). if you are willing to run the gauntlet you can get up to around 220kw on the stock turbo at about 16 or 17psi through the stock turbo.

Yeh I'm happy with 240-250, that's plenty for me...but I want it to be useable power, I don't know whether the 20 will have as much of a street friendly useable 250kw as a 25 would

No way in hell!

Get ready for the torqueless goatf**ker compared :P

Lmao yep I sort of figured....oh well might drop in a 25 down the track when funds allow...

To save all the to and fro with questions I have about how easy it is to swap to a 25...could someone post a link to some info? Thanks

search function is sometimes a bleeep

i usually type the question (if its pretty normal) into google and it comes up with the relevant thread on sau

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119865-rb25-into-r32-basic-guide/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...