Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking about getting myself a scooter for work (will take the 125 test).

But has anyone had any recent experience with one ie are there any out there that can do 110kph or 120kph?

I have to go up a single lane highway @ 110 ish so dont want to be holding everybody up (thats if its even legal to go a highway on a scooter) as i am new to them, just thought i would throw the idea out there and see other peoples views...

if so what brands/makes are good??

I want somthing sporty looking :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375627-125cc-scootersmoped/
Share on other sites

Most scooters should comfortably get along at 100-110.

The Yamaha Aerox 100 is a good one. I like 2 strokes. Although they tend to top out at about 100. That said, there are tons of aftermarket bit available to get them cranking harder like pipes, clutches, carbies, barrels and the like.

EDIT: https://www.pmtuning.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=00219100AEROX

Edited by Cowboy1600

If you don't have your bike licence already you're only going to be able to do 80 anyway?

I've got a postie, that'll do 80 :P

If you've already got a licence then why the fudge are you getting a scooter so small?!

edit: I'd look at a Sachs Madass. They're awesome :D They'll do 110 easy assuming you're not too heavy whistling.gif

Edited by zoidbergmerc

Thinking about getting myself a scooter for work (will take the 125 test).

But has anyone had any recent experience with one ie are there any out there that can do 110kph or 120kph?

I have to go up a single lane highway @ 110 ish so dont want to be holding everybody up (thats if its even legal to go a highway on a scooter) as i am new to them, just thought i would throw the idea out there and see other peoples views...

if so what brands/makes are good??

I want somthing sporty looking :)

This is like saying you want racing stripes on a getz.......

Im not sure what the rules are in WA but here in QLD you cant ride anything over 50cc without a Bike licence. I would suggest a cheap 250cc bike.I have a ninja 250r.

I would suggest a bike with a bit more capacity if you are going to be wanting to hold 100 to 110km esspecilly on hills. My 50cc jiajue scooter was not to slow for a 50 but up hills it suffered big time. (got it to 80km down a big hill once)

Yeah sporty looking as in not like a vespa or big wheeled postie bike!

Yeah looking around i will have to go 50cc unless i do a test...

At this stage its just an idea, but it means i have more to sepdn on the gtr :)

get your bike licence then get a 400cc registerable dirt bike. will easily do the speed limit without having to scream its tits off.

No LAMS in WA till next year, so that means 260cc max.

I used to race them in qld

Go the aerox and make it a 50cc one

The 50 is water cooled and also has the rear disc brake.

There is so much after market stuff for these its insane. You can get them up to 30 plus hp from 4hp

The aerox 100 is is only 8hp and will get kicked by a 70cc aerox.

I have built a few of these engines for race bikes now

I used to race them in qld

Go the aerox and make it a 50cc one

The 50 is water cooled and also has the rear disc brake.

There is so much after market stuff for these its insane. You can get them up to 30 plus hp from 4hp

The aerox 100 is is only 8hp and will get kicked by a 70cc aerox.

I have built a few of these engines for race bikes now

Lol sounds good who can do that inw a and how much??

Went into honda (couldnt find yamaha dealers) they tried convincing me to take the 250cc test and buya 250cbr....

did i mention i have a crf250 in my games room looking for a home gerry...?

registered

sporty

will do 120 with current gearing but stock gearing did 150+

just hit 4000kms

electric and kickstart

just sayin :whistling:

bunbury yamaha is across the road from harvey norman near orbit fitness and paint shop :thumbsup:

You cant buy aerox,s anymore they stopped importing them in 2008 for some reason.

I do all my own porting and engine building , price depends on how fast you want to go . You can spend up to 10k on an engine if you want .

But if you put 1500 into an engine you will get a real tough street setup that will pop stands easily

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...