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OK so the sound in the GTR is just terrible and now giving me the shits...

So any input surrounding the below requirements would be appreciated.

Required:

1x head unit, must have USB & MP3

2x front speakers

2x rear speakers

Budget:

$700 not including labour or wiring

Restrictions:

No amps allowed, pain in the ass with track day scrutineering.

Gotta be bolt in for the fronts, rear not much of an issue, can be customised.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/375689-r33-gtr-sound-system/
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Yeah mate compromise is a bitch.

I've taken out my capacitor, subs and amps from the boot as I'm sick of the extra weight and not having access to my spare.

All I have is 5" splits up front and 6x9's rear under the windows.(Fusions)

Good value for money, nice accurate robust speakers.

However, without the subs, the rears sound out of phase.

Too much reflex lost within the rear quarters or it's not sealed very well.

Need to fill the void with unsulation.

I remember years ago my brother had 6 x 9s alone in the rear parcel shelf of an old Ford Fairlane, and it sounded truly awesome.

Again, depends on the seal.

So when you say no amps, do you mean full stop, or would an easy-to-remove amp be OK (i assume u don't need amped music on the track?).

Nah I CBF'd with taking it out/refitting all the time.

I’d have to take it out before I leave the apartment I live in, takes f’in ages to get to the car park, so end up having to do 3 trips (already have to do 2).

I don’t think I need an amp to have a reasonable system in there for that budget.

Yeah mate compromise is a bitch.

I've taken out my capacitor, subs and amps from the boot as I'm sick of the extra weight and not having access to my spare.

All I have is 5" splits up front and 6x9's rear under the windows.(Fusions)

Good value for money, nice accurate robust speakers.

However, without the subs, the rears sound out of phase.

Too much reflex lost within the rear quarters or it's not sealed very well.

Need to fill the void with unsulation.

I remember years ago my brother had 6 x 9s alone in the rear parcel shelf of an old Ford Fairlane, and it sounded truly awesome.

Again, depends on the seal.

Yeah it is indeed. I just want ease of use, cause I’m lazy :D

Well I have no idea what is in there now, the head unit is old as it wont even play MP3 – I’m guessing at least 7 years old going by previous owners who I know weren’t interested in that at all so anything is going to be better than what is in there currently.

I aint *that* anal about the sound quality. Long as its not noticeably out like you are describing.

Haha ye I had 6x9s in my old ZJ fairlane 9yrs ago with a small amp, was awesome and cheap.

Oh and ipod plugs – I give no fark for any of that. I’ll be strict USB stick only.

Single DIN too.

Ash have you had a look on caraudioaustralia / mobile electronics Australia? I've got an Alpine V12 amp (old school) and some second hand splits from their, the sound quality is very good....(but then there is the exhaust lol)

If your looking new it does cost a bit for decent speakers.

Mmm depends on the savings.

And what 2nd hand audio gear is like. I have no idea lol.

But given the Aussie Dollar i'd imagine $700 will go reasonably well buying from the US - I just have no idea what is decent and what is rubbish. Even if i have to spend 800-900 that doesn't worry me overtly if it means the extra 100-200 is really making a difference.

I plan to have a much quieter exhaust in the near future anyway so it wont be too bad :D

Mmm depends on the savings.

And what 2nd hand audio gear is like. I have no idea lol.

But given the Aussie Dollar i'd imagine $700 will go reasonably well buying from the US - I just have no idea what is decent and what is rubbish. Even if i have to spend 800-900 that doesn't worry me overtly if it means the extra 100-200 is really making a difference.

I plan to have a much quieter exhaust in the near future anyway so it wont be too bad :D

once again beware of buying a audio gear from USA, some wont work here at all. and most has a voided warranty because the dealers are "trasnshippers" which void the warranty even if they say authorized dealers " !!!! and the dollar exchange rate doesn't even pay for the shipping cost from usa ??

and hurts the ecomomy in oz

where are you located I might be able to recommend someone ? chris rogers off here is in brissy but Im sure could help you out ?

some of the new amps fit in the palm of your hand by the way ???

high powered deck , alpine,pioneer, clarion, kenwoood are some of my choices in no order

speakers, some coax in the rear deck, splits in the front but your budget is really tight , if you never intend on a bigger system you could do it. but dont' shoot yourself in the foot by buying cheap and being bass deprived , better off buying a nicer deck hi power, and some decent front speakers, and if you need to use the factory ones in back faded out, or disconnected if they sound horrible.

then buy a set of matching coax for the rear when you have funds ?

I'm in Melb :)

Not worried about hurting the Aus economy. The Gov't have done a better job that I could ever with the taxing (don't get me started :P).

Installation is not a problem.

If $900 makes it easier then go with that? A mate that works @ JB, cost price is possible there.

So it's purely parts/items cost only, which are a PIA as i have no idea what works well & what does not. Specs, brands etc etc.

Just don't want to go in without having information.

I don't plan to ever upgrade, the car is built to be tracked after all and it's just for some reasonable sounding tunes driving to/from events AND USB so i can just dump off my PC so i don't need to worry about CD's.

Ill start having a look around in stores next few weeks @ Decks that I actually like to use and start there.

JB hi fi choices at just above cost prices ?

I would look to see what you like off this list. since its cost I cant say which one would fit you budget

Pioneer australia

or contact chris rogers he might be able to price match or do a deal for you ?

from the JB website I would choose this one for your needs think it covers all of them ? this is single din if you wanted double din

http://www.jbhifionl...cd-tuner/650634

single din CD above

double din below and DVD

http://www.jbhifionl...receiver/651163

speakers from JB

MB Quart splits front and rear or coax rears, 6.5 or 6x9 , depending on if your rear deck is cut out , since I cant see your car I cant say for sure but MB Quarts sound nice and smooth .

http://www.jbhifionl...h-splits/436107

spend a few bucks on some of the ultra light dynamat for at least the doors and maybe a bit on the rear deck. it light as a 1.5 liter water bottle and will make a huge difference in sound , and the feel of the doors in general. not on JB's website but I do know they sell it

JB's website doesnt show everything they sell so you might find something better but this should help you

that should get you pretty close to your budget levels depending on pricing you get and if who installs it

Edited by sapphiregraphics

or you could just buy an ipod and a good set of headphones? :D

Troy has the right idea with the sound deadener, it makes a huge difference especially with no sub.

tbh get a decent set of 6.5s for the front, then 6x9 at the back. shouldn't be too hard to fit them in, i've seen plenty of GTR with them (including mine? :D).

you might try see if you can get a package: headunit, 4 speakers, the cables, and misc other crap. im sure your mate could wrangle that for 650

actually, http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/car-sound/car-speakers/pioneer-tsd1720c-17cm-packaged-component-speaker-system-260w-max/435849 + the 1st headunit is about $500, and really unless you wanted LOTS of noise coming from the back, that might be the best option. you are quite limited in terms of power from the head unit anyway, so im not sure of the benefit of running more than 2 speakers and 2 tweeters.

$650 - nice and cheap for head unit + front/rear.

How does this Dynamat stuff work? Just a sound deadener/insulation type of thing is it?

it converts sound energy into heat , nothing you can feel unless your pushing 180db for a while , but thats the way it really works in easy to understand terms,

it modifies the resonant freq of the panel you place it on makes it feel more solid then it is.

sounds more of a thud then twang when you hit the door. for the country folk..lol

but what your after is , to stop rattles, vibrations, if you use enough you can seal off the doors like a sub box(sort of) for better deeper bass and a lower noise floor in the cabin so you dont need amplifiers to hear the tunes. the ultra light stuff has a silver side with random fiberglass fibers to hold it from tearing woven in , and fire resistant soft foam core, with a self stick backing, they use if for under bonnets, roofs, boot lids,

that can be found overseas much cheaper and light to ship. ??

think mine was $45 USD retail plus shipping for a box big enough to do a bonnet underside.(i do not condone "transhipping" the unauthorized dealers selling of products out of the market or country disclamer..to save face with the 12v industry guys..lol)

it made my car so quite I can listen to my iphone in the console while doing 100kph . and my car has a turbo back 3." to a 5 inch tip in on it . not super loud outside on idle but roars at 100...lol

mind you I do have two layers of it now. butyl / tar based and light weight type . oh another bonus my car is way cooler inside on sunny days. after doing doors and roof alone.

use a name brand product only , the cheap stuff falls off in this heat . and smells like hell if you get the tar based type, "roofers special "

i think you would be happy with the selection , but without sifting thru JB's access list of items available thats the best I can do.

or you could just buy an ipod and a good set of headphones? :D

Troy has the right idea with the sound deadener, it makes a huge difference especially with no sub.

tbh get a decent set of 6.5s for the front, then 6x9 at the back. shouldn't be too hard to fit them in, i've seen plenty of GTR with them (including mine? :D).

you might try see if you can get a package: headunit, 4 speakers, the cables, and misc other crap. im sure your mate could wrangle that for 650

actually, http://www.jbhifionl...260w-max/435849 + the 1st headunit is about $500, and really unless you wanted LOTS of noise coming from the back, that might be the best option. you are quite limited in terms of power from the head unit anyway, so im not sure of the benefit of running more than 2 speakers and 2 tweeters.

Dont cut your rear deck for 6x9 if its not already , ADR rules say they can ping you for a major structual defect for doing it ??? . of course im sure in other states you could get a waved engineer report. just in case

and without a AMP you will want rear speakers. most decks aren't bridgeable power to double the power to the fronts

Edited by sapphiregraphics

Front speakers are more important than rear speakers.

Dynamat is a great idea but its very time consuming so will quickly add to installation costs.

I'd be asking a few audio shops how much it would cost to sound deaden an R33, its going to add a few kilograms of weight but it will make any speaker sound a lot better.

I would buy the front speakers & dynamat only.

Front speakers are more important than rear speakers.

Dynamat is a great idea but its very time consuming so will quickly add to installation costs.

I'd be asking a few audio shops how much it would cost to sound deaden an R33, its going to add a few kilograms of weight but it will make any speaker sound a lot better.

I would buy the front speakers & dynamat only.

dont forget he is shopping JB at just above cost !!! limited options

the lightweight stuff takes a few min to appy, not like the kind you have to roll out and prep, you just wipe the dirt off, peel off the backing, trim, done ......a whole box to do a bonnet weighs about a kilo once you ditch the box.

dont forget his budget , you would be wasting half the decks 50 watts of power on nothing to save a few kg

aprox 3 db more of sound by double the power by using the rear channels power and 3 db of sound pressure by double the speakers ? you dont need extra speaker wiring, just use the factory wires and the ones that come with crossovers to tweeters.

without a amp , he will want rear speakers , the boot makes better bass then doors

the car isnt light to start with, its easier to save weight on things like boot lids, and bonnets , which weigh a lot. you have the choice race car or street car. just add NOS...hahaha or miss maccas on track day

Guys please forget about installation costs - there aren't any.

Installation wont cost me a cent, regardless of how long it takes :)

I just put JB up as a source because I can easily get cost price there. I could potentially source from other places as well need be, I'd have to find out etc.

I'll get down next week and checkout some decks and see which ones are user friendly and report back!

Def want rear speakers. It'll sound weird not having sound coming from the rear.

The best advice I can give is LISTEN to a whole load of speakers. It takes time, but your ears will tell you what's good and what's not. Take a single test CD with you that you are very familiar with.

I did this years ago and realised the following:

Pioneer speakers are shit

Sony speakers are even worse

Alpine is meh

Clarion is meh

Boston Acoustics are really nice -> bought these ones

Beware the path of audio nirvana though. I spent too much on the speakers in my car currently :P

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