Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wondering if any one else with a 2door GTT R34 has a working red interior door light on both sides. i've seen it work on my mates GTR R34 so i thought mine was busted but when i took the screw off my GTT interior door light there was nothing there no bulb not even a socket to put a bulb in.....I took the driver door apart i thought it might of just fallen off but there wasnt even a lead to the hole where the red door lights supose to be.?!?!?!?

is that feature only on the GTRs?

  • 3 months later...

Door interior lights.

This is why its worth paying the extra cash for a R34 GTR.

Anyone seen my wanted to buy ad? Im searching for a bayside blue vspec one if you happen to see this post and have one that you'll sell.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

Just found this thread via Google of all things!

Yes the GT-T only came with the reflector/red lens. However.. there is mounts at the back there to accommodate a bracket. So i'm gonna have a play around and try to make something up, whether I use something from another car, or just make a bracket with some veroboard and LED's, not sure yet.

The car deserves a bit of luxury i think!

  • 2 months later...

I know this is a slight gravedig, but whatever.

I had door lights on my ol' Pintara and I miss the look with my R34. So I was at the wreckers today, took one of the red covers with me and went hunting around.

I found some door lights on a Maxima, didn't really pay attention to the model but it would be of a similar vintage, so a J30 or the model after that.

The Maxima must have different lenses as there's little tab things that stick up and stop the Skyline lens sitting properly, but they could easily be cut or filed down. The screw holes line up perfectly and the body of the light holder fits in the Skyline's door card perfectly. So besides flattening the surface down a little, there's virtually zero mucking around necessary. Just screw it in, get power to them, and your're done.

I havn't wired it up yet myself but that's not going to be a difficult thing.

Doorlight1.jpg

Doorlight2.jpg

Doorlight3.jpg

Doorlight4.jpg

Doorlight5.jpg

Edited by Rake
  • 4 months later...

Wow, was it March when I started on this?

Sorry if it's a gravedig but whatever. Finally got around to this tonight!

I'm posting because I believe in sharing content and I'm sure someone will find this thread one day.

Anyway. The not-so-useful 12mb workshop manual pdf that everyone has contained this gem. I worked out how to wire in the door lights in a useful way, and added it in.

34dlschem2.png

Doorlight8.jpg

The easiest places to get to this loom are behind the dash cluster or at the key barrel. I opted for the latter. So I spliced into the 2 wires and added an extra plug.

(Ignore the "Connector for light" notation, it's pointing to the "you left your key in" chime thing, the actual connector for the light isn't that one but another very close nearby)

Anyway. So all that needs to happen is to make a custom loom, running a pair of wires to each door for each light.

Doorlight9.JPG

Now these steps may differ depending on what donor car your parts come from, since mine were from a Maxima they needed some modifications, as the Maxima's lenses were presumably different.

For instance if you got some out of a 34 GTR I doubt you'd need to mod them at all, unless the lenses are different or something.

Basically involed clipping some bits off, filing out the mating surface so the lens would fit, then shortening down the lens and bulb holder bits so the screws would reach the door card.

Doorlight10.JPG

Doorlight11.JPG

Connect all the wiring. Voila!

Works flawlessly. Basically, when the ceiling light or key barrel light work, so do the door lights. That means they stay on w/ 15sec delay, turn on/off when locking / unlocking with the remote and so forth.

Doorlight12.JPG

Edited by Rake

nice tute.. :yes:

+1

Only question I have is would a bigger fuse be needed with two extra bulbs in the circuit or is that not an issue?

Rang t he local wreckers today and they have a Maxima in the ard so going to see if they are the right ones later ths week

Glad it's useful guys :)

You wouldn't want high wattage bulbs in these anyway - I think Nissan put 2.7watt ones in these "spot lamps". Even if you added in 2 x 5W bulbs, which many T10 wedges are that people have lying around, that's still under 1 amp additional current draw. I'd think it's a nominal addition to the circuit. If it was a problem (unlikely), probably could just swap the 10 amp fuse (#26) with a 15 amp one.

Untested thus far - trial and error! I will be doing my drivers door hopefully this week and doing the cabin wiring to finish it off.

LEDs would probably use bugger all too if you went that way (but being directional could look crap - just my opinion!)

If you're going to a wrecker, take down one of the lenses and compare / check fitment. Don't discount other cars as well - ones from Bluebirds, Pintaras etc may fit also, maybe even Nissan's 4WDs if they ever had them. Typically though the door lights only ever came in the up-spec luxo models (usually badged Ti's?), so be sure to check them all :) My thoughts, pretty much if the screw holes line up, you're sweet. Don't forget to get the plugs as well!

Once you've got the parts, and you work out where to wire them in (as we've now figured out :P) this mod is ridiculously straightforward. The difficulty is not in how to make it work, but just the physical running the wiring to the doors. I'm actually running speaker wire at the same time just incase I decide to fit an amp in the future. I'd guess there's posts about running wiring to the doors in stereo install threads if we search. Such info would be useful for this mod.

Any GTR owners reading this? I'd love to know how the factory GTR ones function, and if I've mimicked it correctly or not.

Edited by Rake
  • 2 years later...

Nearly 3 years later just dug up this jem.

I've had a gtt for a while but don't find the time to tinker with it. I got quite the surprise when I pulled the door trim off looking for a blown glob or missing holder. Ill be doing this mod very soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...