Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I am currently looking at selling my 1989 r32 4 door. Not sure whether to sell it or not so just testing the waters at this stage. It has been a great car, runs amazingly and really turns heads. Would be perfect for P-platers !!

It has:

Completely stock RB20DE engine 175 XXX Ks

Auto

Custom leatherette interior with nissan logo embroided on seats

VDO 6'' splits all round, VDO touchscreen dvd player headset, JVC 600w 4 chanel amp, 1200w pioneer sub

Rare 4 door side skirts

Type M front bar

Momo steering wheel

Undercar Led's (multi 7 colour with remote)

Blue Led's in front footwells and dash cluster

White Dash dial faces (put on the original dash)

Small tacho mounted next to cluster as the stock one is abit off

HKS fully adjustable coilovers

Cannon exhaust tip

Whitish aftermarket headlight bulbs

Fusion central locking and alarm

Comes with alloy stockies that have been sprays black

Can come with Silver driftteks for the right price

The bad:

Paint is very average in afew spots, could use a respray to get it looking A1

Afew scrapes/dints on the passenger side fender from being side swiped

A dint near the petrol cap which was there when i bought the car

Door trims need to be trimmed in same material as seats, havnt gotten around to it but material will be provided.

Also the temp guage stopped working

Other then that the car is a real beaut! I have loved this car for the two years i have owned it but i am after something manuel.

Message me if you have any questions.

Great car for P platers. Serious buyers only

$7,500 ONO

May accept swaps, throw me an offer!

(Pictures are from before the passenger side was damaged)

post-67206-0-00516600-1314959096_thumb.jpg

post-67206-0-73885400-1314959195_thumb.jpg

post-67206-0-28233200-1314959243_thumb.jpg

post-67206-0-21767400-1314959288_thumb.jpg

post-67206-0-55254600-1314959364_thumb.jpg

post-67206-0-36712500-1314959385_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376039-eoi-r32-4-door-non-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

> You're asking $7500 without the Drifteks?

> Mind uploading a few photos of the passenger-side 'dints' & petrol-cap 'dint' please?

> How long has the temperature gauge been broken?

> Wouldn't mind photo of boot interior and the amp/sub — have they been thrashed?

> How much tread on tyres?

> Are the speakers, amp and Sub all in good condition? Part of what makes this so appealing is the already-featured beatz, saves ~ $1100 that I'd have to spend if I were to do it myself.

Reason for so many questions: I'm based in Melbourne — never bought from SAU either, so I'm a tad skeptical.

Thanks.

Edited by cev

Hey mate, decided to go $7500 with drifteks now

The speakers are all in great working order, the bass isnt turned up too loud so it hasnt been smashed. Sub and amp are only about a year old and the speakers are about a year and a half old.

The temp guage only stopped working about a month ago.

Tires still have plenty of tread

will put pics up in a minute

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...