Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi peps,

I've got this boost controller and prefer it to be installed by experts or workshop.

If anyone has done it by them self before and willing to do it, PM me for a price.

Or if any one got a workshop to install it, please let me know Price and Location.

I am located in Sydney! NSW workshops only.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37627-apexi-avcr-installaton-cost/
Share on other sites

Yes, from personal experiance, they are overall very good workshop but often charge prestige prices!!! John himself is willing to charge you $n+1 dollars if you let him know you have $n in your bank.

so carlo? how long did it take you? i believe you need to have soldering skills right?

Took me about a hour to wire up the ECU. You dont solder the wires you use these little clamps.

Was a bitch to get the wire through the firewall for the solonoid, I had to cut the plugs off and then resolder those.

Then you have to do all the piping etc etc.

Then you have to tune the thing, I would suggest its best to do that on a dyno. My one is not tuned or setup yet, I still have the bleed valve. I am going to tune it up on Johns dyno in a few weeks

Ordinary mechanics cost 50-65 an hour so it makes sense that experts would charge a fair bit more. Also I happen to know that mechanics are in very short supply at the moment so it would make sense that good ones, and here is my assumption; that UAS has good mechanics, would be able to command a much higher rate of pay.

I guess if a workshop is involved in racing of whatever sort then that would be expensive and some people might say that the customers are subsidising the sport but you could also say that when they race they learn things which may come in handy with their customers cars.

Think of it like this

The mechanics at UAS know their shit, they do very good work. You might pay 90 a hour but they will do the job faster and better than your average mechanic.

If you take the AVC-R to a normal mechanic he will chage 60 a hour, and prolly have no idea how to hook it up. I would rather pay for 2 hours at 90 dollars an hour than 5 at 60 a hour.

carlo: (normal mechanic he will chage 60 a hour, and prolly have no idea how to hook it up. I would rather pay for 2 hours at 90 dollars an hour than 5 at 60 a hour.)

you are right carlo, but I am not just talking about any mechnics in gerneral, there are not just UAS in Sydney. There are many other IMPORT CARS SPECIALIST. There are other places such as Hills Motor Sport (just at the back), place at croydon and other that would charge $70-$80 per hour... hey, if you need them to do anything for 5 hours, that save you $50 at least! and that is a tank of petrol!

There is heaps of workshops around, most of them just call them selves import specialists... its very much consumer beware.

Croydon charge a premium these days too, however they are a quality outfit so its nothing to be upset about.

I used to charge $120-$150 a hour when I was a systems engineer, so I should not bitch to much about $90.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...