Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R34 GTT coupe which has met an unfortunate end. Parts as listed.

R34 neo turbo engine. 108,000km perfect condition, complete, with turbo, loom, ecu etc. $2200

R34 turbo gearbox. will come with shfiter, clutch, slave cylinder, tailshaft etc: $1800

R34 GTT GAB coilovers. Seem to be ok condition. $700

R34 turbo brake kit, good condition great upgrade, bigger than 32/33. $700

R34 Xenon headlights. perfect condition. not yellow. $800 pair

R34 front guards. good condition, small dents. $100 a side

R34 bonnet. silver. steel. perfect condition. $200

R34 turbo front bar, silver, good condtion, small scrape. $150

R34 doors, complete, windows tinted. small dints, repairable. $150 each

can do front cut for repair sections if needed. rails are straight, rad support straight, everything is good.

have dash airbag and steering wheel airbag. make me an offer.

dash in perfect condition.

manual dash cluster with 108,xxxkm $150

manual conversion parts, pedals, clutch and brake, master cylinder, line, manual centre console trim. $350

have rear screen and quarter glass. $POA, will need to be professionally removed.

Contact on here, or 0427282562 sms preferred.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376321-r34-gtt-wreck/
Share on other sites

Sorry haven't been checking this thread as much as I should, was busy replying to PM's.

headlights are sold.

front guards and front bar are sold.

dash cluster is sold.

Yes I am happy to post items anywhere, obviously postage at buyers expense.

The triple gauge cluster is there, and is filled with autometer gauges. Volts, Oil temp and boost. they fit in really well.

here are some pics of the gauges, the engine and the damage.

img1347m.th.jpg

img1344d.th.jpg

img1335i.th.jpg

img1333op.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376321-r34-gtt-wreck/#findComment-6006532
Share on other sites

Closed until issue with headlight sale is rectified with the buyer.

Admin has been contacted so this is being followed.

At this stage anyone looking to purchase goods from this user should hold off until issues are resolved.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376321-r34-gtt-wreck/#findComment-6011682
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...