Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

The left xenons finally failed a few nights ago. It started to flicker just slightly few weeks ago but got gradually worse over time and now it doesn't ignite.

My initial thoughts was the ballast but I might be wrong. I haven't tried swapping out the globes yet, just wanted to ask if anyone has had this problem before.

I have contacted Ben from NSP but he's never heard of failing lights before.

Anyway suggestions?

thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376631-m35-xenons-failed/
Share on other sites

+1 for ebay

its D2R standard (as mentioned by mike) which is an internally shielded bulb but its exactly the same as the D2S (minus the small shielding in the bulb). i ordered 2 cheap as D2S 6000K bulbs but they arrived as D2R. didnt bother me, fitted fine and light output is the same.

i picked 6000K because i find it looks pure white without the purple, blue or yellow tint

  • 2 years later...

My NM35 Stag has HID Xenons, and for some reason they work fine for about 30 minutes, but then one will 'go out'. Usually if I turn the lights off and then turn them back on again, they re-strike and keep working but after a short period of time, one will go out again.

Is this a sign the bulbs need replacing, or is it the ballast?

I had the exact same issue with my C34. It was the left hand globe and it seemed after they got warm, it stopped working. I put in second hand globes 2 years ago and it solved the issue, so yeah, short answer, globes.

My NM35 Stag has HID Xenons, and for some reason they work fine for about 30 minutes, but then one will 'go out'. Usually if I turn the lights off and then turn them back on again, they re-strike and keep working but after a short period of time, one will go out again.

Is this a sign the bulbs need replacing, or is it the ballast?

Hi wht510. I recently just changed my bulbs on my NM35 Stagea to 6000K D2S (retained the OEM Ballast). I got them from Max Vision Australia.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...