Jump to content
SAU Community

Whiteline Sway Bar Group Buy R32, R33, R34 Gtr And 2Wd

Daleo

By Daleo,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I am organising a group buy for Whiteline Skyline Sway Bars. We require a MINIMUM of 5 orders to go ahead.

Front R32, R33 and R34 GTR;

BNF27Z; 22mm ADJ AWD RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNF27Z.jpg

Front R33 and R34 2WD ONLY!

BNF24Z; 24mm ADJ 2WD; RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNF24X; 27mm Fixed 2WD; RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNF24Z.jpg

Rear; R33 and R34 2WD & GTR ;

BNR11Z; 20mm ADJ; RRP;$299 Me; $240

BNR11XZ; 22mm ADJ; RRP; $299 Me; $240

BNR11XXZ; 24mm ADJ; RRP; $299 Me; $240

BNR11XZ.jpg

R32 2WD

Front; BNF 28Z: 24mm Heavy Duty Blade Adjustable. RRP; $265 Me; $220

Rear; BNR 26Z: 22mm Heavy Duty Blade Adjustable. RRP; $299 Me; $240

Rear; BNR 26XZ; 24mm Heavy Duty Blade Adjustable. RRP; $299 Me; $240

Front Links; R33, R34 GTR and 2WD (Not R32 GTR or 2WD)

KLC108; Front Heavy Duty Ball Link; RRP; $180 Me; $120

KLC108.jpg

Rear Links; R32, R33, R34 GTR and 2WD

KLC109; Rear Heavy Duty Ball Link; RRP; $180 Me; $120

tn_KLC109.jpg

You can order any item individually, or all of the above to make your Skyline even more of a corner devouring beast!

Delivery is not included in this price, and rather than quote a "one size fits all" cost, contact me with your postcode for an accurate shipping cost.

The average shipping cost over the last 4 Group Buys I've run has been around the $20 -$30 mark; (insurance is extra).

As I live in Faulconbridge (Blue Mountains), all those wishing to come to me are welcome otherwise, I am happy to travel a reasonable distance in the Sydney area to deliver at no cost!

This is a great saving over retail, and an excellent chance to get hold of fantastic quality components that will really improve the handling of your wagon!

To stop this from dragging on for ages, I will requre FULL payment by Monday 3rd October 2011, and delivery is should be around 2-3 weeks later; 17th October onwards (actual delivery date may be a little earlier or a little later) depending on manufacturing lead time.

Please PM me for a shipping quote BEFORE depositing any funds.

Rest assured, I will be keeping in touch through the process, and in contact with all purchasers once they're ready!

Banking Details;

Dale Laughton

ANZ Bank

BSB; 012-836

ACC; 5333-44981

When making a payment, please use your forum user name as a reference, so I can confirm payments.

So let's get cracking!

Cheers, Dale

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What are the links for? I'm interested in getting a set of swaybars for r33 but not sure whether to get adjustable or fixed yet.

The links use a fully encapsulated heavy duty ball joint; basically removes all of the give in the urethane bushed style set up that are included in the Sway Bar kit.

Gives a much more direct response; but without any of the attendant noise and maintenance isses encountered with race style, aircraft (or Heim) joints.

I use these on my own car and the difference in response even on an OEM Sway Bar was incredible.

Tweaky Collaborator

Tweaky

Posted
Posted

What would you recommend for a R33 GTS-T combination in front & rear swaybar size ? I was thinking of putting the 24mm adjustable up front , with the 22mm adjustable in the rear . Also with the links all way round aswell :)

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What would you recommend for a R33 GTS-T combination in front & rear swaybar size ? I was thinking of putting the 24mm adjustable up front , with the 22mm adjustable in the rear . Also with the links all way round aswell :)

Spot on I reckon; the 27mm front is probably a little too much for the street. The links just make a nice package that little bit nicer...

Looking forward to having you on board.:thumbsup:

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BNF24X; 27mm Fixed 2WD; RRP; $265 Me; $220

BNR11XXZ; 24mm ADJ; RRP; $299 Me; $240

Plus I would like front an rear links. All parts for 1996 ecr33

No problem; I can do that.:thumbsup:

Do you need delivery? If so; please PM me and I can fix you up with a postage price.

Cheers, Dale.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dale you should get the mods to move this thread to the group buy section an delete the other one :thumbsup:

It actually is in there, but most people don't seen to look in there; I thought this might help it get a bit more traffic.:thumbsup:

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Got 3 so far; if needs be I'll go ahead with that, but I'd like a couple more. Normally there's a bit of a rush in the last week.thumbsup.gif

Going to get involved?

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...