Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so I just finally got my car running sweet just got the new exhaust on and driving it home and the turbine wheel exploded. It's a rb25 turbo was ment to be high flowed not the case as it seems. My biggest worry now is it was high mounted could the bits of wheel go back into the block and cause damage? Also I'm now in need of a new turbo any suggestions and I want it to highmount as iv already got everything set up that way and yes I have read the rb20 forum but would still like suggestions/ advice.

My mods are

3 inch exhaust

35 mm turbosmart external gate

Stainless highmount

32 gtr cooler 2.5 inch piping

Tommi fpr

Walbro fuel pump

New hd clutch

And replaced every gasket on the motor and sensors

Will be putting in 550 injectors

And I'm getting a nistune once this is sorted

Help would be very apriciated

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/376958-turbine-wheel-out-the-ass/
Share on other sites

Hi or lo mount won't make much difference as to whether any turbine fragments made it back inside. That's all due to the random acts of gas flow and whether any blades were released in the direction of the manifold flange.

Looking at the Hipergear thread, you'd be hard pressed to go past getting one of his. You'd probably be smart to try to get hold of another turbo with an OP6 housing on it, but they could hiflow yours quite successfully. ~$900 for mucho boost+flow.

I already have one welded up to suite wastegate I might check that out then sounds good I'm only chasing 220 to 240 kw anywhere close and I'll be happy. I might just take the manifold off to be safe. What about a gt30r heard these are good for a 20 or even a td05 or 6 I was leaning more towards that option Thanks for the help

I'm only chasing 220 to 240 kw anywhere close and I'll be happy.

Hi flowed RB25 turbo is perfect for this. They are good for 240-250rwkw.

I might just take the manifold off to be safe.

Yep good idea

What about a gt30r heard these are good for a 20 or even a td05 or 6 I was leaning more towards that option Thanks for the help

Well you could... But your only chasing 240kw. The high flow will be cheaper, As said, $900 or so.

I was just thinking about leaving some more head room incase I get over the 250 mark. I don't want to have to buy a turbo again to make more power I would like to install cams and gears later down the track to get a bit more out. I have my waste gate set to 17 psi and was thinking with a td05 I would get good power still and not loose to much response I'm not worried about lag its a 20 need lag to get good power. Also the rb turbos don't seen to suite the highmount to well very close to engine because of the flange. I would rather just do it right the first time and have it done then all I need is boost. I'm no expert I'm a metal fabricator not a mechanic so what would be my best option if I wanted to push 240 and up and please don't say buy a rb25 because it's not a option

I pulled the turbo off today and stripped it the wheel has caused exssive damage to the op6 housing gouges and dints everywhere there was a lot of burnt oil in there as well so I'm thinking a big chunk can through and that's what caused this problem as it was only on 8 psi. Can the rear housing be re machined and used as a high flow so I can sell it? Compressor wheel is fine. Iv also put in a injury for a td05H-16g6 with a 8 cm housing t3 flanged would this be a good option for both response and power?

Ok thanks for the Help mate I also did a serch on the td06l2-20g and it seems that the only difference is the turbine wheel is a few mm smaller but compressor is that same would the results be similar I'm guessing it wound run out of puff faster that's all

Edited by Bsa

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...